2024

Day 21 – Reflections on Richard the Pilgrim

Gunzenhausen to Heidenheim, 17Km

I took a Covid test yesterday evening and thankfully it was negative. Both times I got Covid was after a flight so when the dry cough started I was expecting the worst. I felt rough this morning as I made my way to the bus stop. I remembered a dreadful morning on my first Camino when my blisters were so bad that the devil led me to the bus stop but after denying him I hobbled on to Compostela, every step of the way. And so this morning, I watched the bus depart and set off across the fields of animal feed, knowing that the 31 degrees (Real Feel 32) would soon warm me up.

It was another decent walk and not one to be missed. Gnotzheim was my first stop but it was devoid of a cafe and the interesting looking church was meant to be open but it wasn’t. Onwards to Spielberg castle which stands on a high hill, possibly a volcanic cone, with great views. The castle dates from the early 13th century and was more recently acquired by the local sculptor and painter Ernst Steinacker (1919 – 2008) to accommodate his work.

However today’s highlight came afterwards, while walking through a forest. Just ahead of me, a huge colourful bird of prey startled by my appearance, took off from a branch and flew into the trees. I wish I could have identified it but what a sight to see in that place of calm and stillness.

And now I’m sitting in Heidenheim Abbey alongside the remains of St Winibald, an English saint from Devon who founded the Abbey in 742 to establish Christianity in this area and to educate priests and nuns, after making the pilgrimage to Rome with his father, Richard the Pilgrim. Some things never change.

Gnotzheim – my first stop this morning
Great views towards Gnotzheim from Spielberg Castle
The 13th century Spielberg Castle with artwork by Ernst Steinacker
More apple trees but this fruit was just out of reach
This was my highlight: the home of the giant bird of prey
Heidenheim Abbey
St Winibald’s Cathedral
After St Winibald’s death his sister Saint Walpurga took over the Abbey. She was born in Crediton in 710
We need to catch up on my food intake. This was last night, a tasty turkey steak with pasta, smothered in pears and cheese, only in Germany
The night before, a German side salad in Wernfels Castle youth hostel. The beefy goulash didn’t photograph very well
Monday night’s beer garden speciality, half eaten (and that’s all I could manage). It’s a big chunk of pork and a dumpling. Very German
Tonight Italian feast: that’s more like it
Mushroom pasta

13 comments on “Day 21 – Reflections on Richard the Pilgrim

  1. Are you feeling better this evening? Wonder if there is an mpox test yet?

  2. Nick Pegram

    Food looks great and in good quantity – well done!!

    • The quantity is always good in Germany. Last night they offered senior sized portions for the senior citizens. I might take them up next time

  3. Good walk Tim. Saint Richard an interesting man, closely associated with Lucca which you passed through on your pilgrimage to Rome 6 years ago!

    • It was quite some family, Richard and the children. Some of them went on to Jerusalem. I bet you’re glad you did that when you did

      • Yes a remarkable family, They were part of my research of early pilgrimages to Jerusalem for the book I have been writing about my own pilgrimage, and yes I feel very privileged and lucky to have chosen 2019 to walk to Jerusalem.

      • I’m loving your walks in Scotland

      • Yes, the northern coast of Scotland, another great adventure! I thought of you when I saw the ferry leaving Gills.

  4. Tassie Kaz

    So glad you’re enjoying Bavaria, Tim. Your photos & description are taking me straight back to when I walked King Ludwigs Way in…er, um…2014? 🤔

    Although you’re in a different area now, Jakobsweg intersected the KLW a few times & the two were one for a section.

    My memories of the food are rushing back too! 😋

    • Yes I saw it and followed the signs for a day. I hope the memories of the food are happy ones

  5. Janet E Holden

    lovely food Tim making me feel hungry 🤤 Janet😁

    • Haha it wasn’t all lovely but thank you. All part of the experience

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