Turku
This year I’m making a Scandinavian pilgrimage, starting here in Finland then passing through Åland, Sweden. Denmark and ultimately into Germany. It’s a journey in two parts. First, the St Olav Waterway will take me island hopping across the Finnish archipelago, on foot and by boat to Stockholm. In the second half I’ll take the night train to Copenhagen and then walk along the Danish Pilgrim Trail to Germany and my destination: picturesque Lübeck. There’s a tiny bit more information on the Scandinavia page of my website. I fly home at the end of July so you won’t have to put up with me for so long this year.
Incidentally, the BBC Pilgrimage producer contacted me last year for ideas for a European pilgrimage. I proposed my 2022 walk from Innsbruck to Einsiedeln Abbey and did quite a lot of work with them on the route through the Alps. The BBC commissioned it and they filmed their group of celebrities walking the best bits. The Road Through the Alps was broadcast over Easter. I didn’t get a credit so I’m mentioning it now.
My Finnair flight from Heathrow this morning was ruined by my leaving my reading glasses in my backpack, which I had to check in (6.6kg, most of which was the flapjacks). The Finnair connection to Turku was a bus but I could read again.
My hotel is the Centro. It’s handy for tomorrow’s starting point at the Cathedral, if not for the restaurants because there aren’t any. I had a choice of McDonalds or a Chinese. I chose the latter and fumbled with the chopsticks which I don’t think I’ve used since Japan.
Sitting here in Turku, it reminds me of one of those old Soviet cities with grey buildings and unbelievably dull shops. But I have fond memories of the place from my previous visit in the dog days of my teens when I made this same journey.
I better say a few words about St Olav before we get started.
St Olav was born in 995AD, became a Viking at the age of 12 and accumulated vast wealth by raiding Denmark, England and France, where he was baptized. He became king of Norway at the age of 20 and attempted to make Christianity the official religion. However, the local chieftains objected and drove him out of the country.
Not deterred, Olav attempted to regain power and sailed back from exile through the archipelago along this very waterway. Sadly, his efforts were ended by an ax in his neck. That might have been that except, as is the Christian way, miracles occurred around his grave. The Norwegians had a change of heart, brought his body to Trondheim, canonized him and proclaimed him the eternal king of Norway. And so the pilgrimage began…
Pilgrimage 
Hi Tim, sounds like an excellent journey, I’ll be following along.
Hi cheezywoman, good to hear from you and I’ll be looking out for some cheese, possibly in Denmark
So which hat did you buy?
Everywhere is closed, sadly
ティムさん げんきですか。
I was just talking about you to one my students as she was interested in pilgrimage in Shikoku and hoping to get your blog this year. And here you are! Like a magic!! Looking forward to reading your new journey!
Hello Miyuki, I’m fine thanks and I hope you’re well too. It’s great to hear from you and to remember my Japanese lessons and the wonderful Shikoku pilgrimage. I encourage everyone to make the pilgrimage and to open their hearts to it. I hope that one day I may do it again and refresh my fading Japanese with you. I also thought of you on my Finnair flight which was making its stop in Helsinki on its way to Tokyo
I look forward to your Saga, warding off hungry Finnish mosquitoes and mischievous Norwegian trolls trespassing into Sweden. Choose your hat wisely!
I have a trusty couple of troll proof hats although I’m sure that hat shop would have had a good choice
Beware them flying axes, maybe a hat would help, which one did you buy?
I couldn’t decide and that was only the window display. Had the shop been open, I can’t imagine what deviant offerings might have come my way
Great to see you back in my inbox. Bon chemin!
Hi Mary, thanks and I’m very happy to be back in your inbox. According to Google Translate, they will be offering hyvä tapa on my way
Hi Tim, I ‘m very happy to read you again and have news of you and your pilgrimage
Good luck et bravo
Bonjour Huguette, welcome and I’m happy to be walking again especially here in beautiful Scandinavia
I noticed that the Road through the Alps followed some of your route! That’s exciting to be consulted but a real shame you didn’t get credit. Look forward to reading this latest adventure.
Hello, I was thrilled to be involved and to propose that route which looked so spectacular on TV, especially the dramatic finale at Einsiedeln Abbey. They had a good group of celebrities which made it into one of the best Pilgrimage programmes so far
Kia ora Tim, I’m delighted that you are on the move again. Every year I wonder where you might wander and look forward to reading your blogs. Why all the flapjacks? Surely you should be exploring the local food like reindeer – don’t tell the littlies! I always enjoy your blogs because I learn a lot about things such as the martyrdom of St Loaf. Kia kaha, Vicky.
Hi Vicky it’s always nice to hear from you. I don’t know why I’m carrying flapjacks except I’ve just finished a hike in Wales and they were leftover. This archipelago has mostly no shops or cafes during the day so I hope to eat them soon because they’re far too heavy to carry
Tim. I’m looking forward to following along on another of your adventures. Good thing you are in northern Europe rather than the south given the weather conditions down there. I’ll try to track down the Beeb pilgrimage you reference as it sounds interesting. Given all your travels I think you should qualify as a celebrity pilgrim now! Buen Camino, Andrew
I feel for the pilgrims in southern Europe. That heat is unbearable and dangerous. I hope they stay indoors and walk during the night. Finland is the place to be at the moment
looking forward to your posts, Tim, – it looks a fascinating route.
Nick Dunne
It does look a bit different. I start taking ferries tomorrow which will be interesting