Rest Day
I’m roughly in the middle of the archipelago so it was a good idea to stay two nights on Kökar to relax a little and to soak up the atmosphere of these more remote islands. Apparently there are about 6500 islands and skerries in the Åland Islands.
The driving rain which greeted my arrival yesterday continued through the night but today has been dry, if rather cool and windy. The Swedish influence is everywhere, from the language to the warm cinnamon buns for breakfast, while the Finnish breakfast is served for lunch which is perfectly fine.
The No 1 attraction is the church up at the top of the peninsula. Everything about it smelt of the sea and centuries of hard winters. Radio Åland was preparing to broadcast the Sunday service, a number of clergymen were present and the technicians were doing a “soundcheck” so I left them to it and went outside to look at the sea.
This afternoon I rented a bicycle from the campsite to see more of Kökar. It was quite stressful because I haven’t cycled since the lockdown; I’m scared of the traffic back home. The bike was heavy despite the absence of electric motor, gears and even lights which are not needed in the Nordic summer. Also, it didn’t have any brakes which I quickly discovered but the machine could be slowed by pedaling backwards. And I had to drive on the right. Fortunately I only met one car on the journey across the island to the museum.
Strangely, the museum closed at 3pm which coincided with my arrival. However the curator was pleased to see me and welcomed me inside where I stepped back in time to see life in 19th century Åland.
My ferry leaves at 6:30am tomorrow morning so I need to leave by 5:15 to walk the 4km back to the port otherwise I’ll be here forever.
Åland Islands
(might have been earlier)
Pilgrimage 
Hi Tim – Finally managed ti catch up with your latest adventure. Interesting island hopping pilgrimage – a bit like those medieval pilgrims hopping across the Greek Islands to Jerusalem! Looking forward to reading about the main pilgrimage route. Stay safe!
Hi David, very good to hear from you. I’ve missed your walks in the north of Scotland, hopefully you’ll be sending more reports soon. I have a few more islands to cross and then the Danish Pilgrim trail
it’s all so fascinating from the 6500 islands, the bicycle that had strange brakes, the museum, the fauna and the cinnamon bun.
Island communities, a bit isolated, hard weather, low population, truly fascinating place
Hi Tim,
I am enjoying your summer adventure with you in the far North. Unfortunately, from my armchair due to breaking my left foot a couple of weeks ago. Needless to say, it has messed up all plans for my summer… I do hold out hope however to meet up with you in October, probably in a boot.
Oh no! That’s terrible. I hope it heals quickly for your trip to Maine. I will keep my fingers crossed for you