Fehmarn to Großenbrode, 17Km
It feels rather remote in this northern corner of the most northerly state of Germany, Schleswig-Holstein. The name is familiar from distant history lessons with all those baffling treaties perpetually carving up the territory between the Danes, Russians, Austrians and of course the Prussians. Everybody seems happy with the outcome, the Danes took their bit, the Germans took the rest and the Austrians lost everything.
It feels remote because there’s a lot of empty space between a few small settlements and the land looks like it has been reclaimed from the sea. I walked along a dyke behind which were fields of barley and a water sports area. Little old windmills suggested some drainage pumps. All this is very pleasant but accommodation is scarce so route planning is challenging.
I set off from Fehmarn, rounded St Nicholas church and started my right angled crossing of the polders. The Fehmarn Sound Bridge made its first appearance. It connects the island to the German mainland. As I changed direction it moved across the horizon in a disconcerting fashion.
Jakobsweg was supposed to lead me along the coast but it was fenced off so I walked along the beach instead and later cut through the marram grass to join a path leading to the bridge. When I arrived there was some serious construction work and I had to resort to my own imagination to gain access to the 1Km long bridge, 20m above me. Fortunately it’s just reopened to pedestrians and cyclists but even so, the path across the bridge is narrow, a notice requires us to cross at our own risk and cyclists are ordered to dismount. They didn’t, so the crossing was more exciting than usual.
After the bridge, I came to Großenbrode which unexpectedly is a busy seaside resort catering for families and it’s packed with young children enjoying the facilities. There is a real sense of happiness in the air but it’s not a place you’d come for 3 months to write your novel.
Pilgrimage 
Lost you on the map, are you near Großhenbrode?
Oh these German place names, how can anyone know exactly where they are? Thanks for spotting that. I’ve done a find and replace
Least there was a concrete barrier on the bridge…although it didn’t help you with the cyclists.
If you find some € coins, I’ll have a space ball & a glow-in-the-dark thingy thanks!
I want a space ball and the pull back car!
It’s hard to imagine pilgrims of old travelling this route, begging lifts from passing farmers carts and fishing boats, in return for tales of far flung adventures and ogres. So well done for keeping up the latter!
I doubt there were any pilgrims of old on this route in Germany which celebrates monks bringing Christianity north. I remember meeting a pilgrim who came this way on his pilgrimage to Rome but the modern pilgrim is far more likely to be heading to Mecca
Those beach huts !!!
So German!