Lübeck
We had a reasonably successful day, ticking off the things to see and do in Lübeck, although intermittent and heavy rain showers certainly hampered progress.
Our first destination was Lübeck Cathedral, a massive and impressive feature of the city skyline with its twin spires rising defiantly into the clouds. I say “defiantly” because the British completely destroyed it together with much of Lübeck in 1942, apparently in reprisal for the bombing of Coventry. The Germans soon rebuilt everything but I kept a low profile and made a small donation to the restoration fund. I also collected a stamp for my credential and lit a candle in thanksgiving for my safe delivery to the end of my pilgrimage.
I’ve long wanted to visit Lübeck cathedral because it was where Gunter Wand conducted the North German Radio Symphony Orchestra in the best ever recording of Bruckner’s 8th symphony. I play it as often as I dare and today I could almost hear the dying notes hanging in the air, almost 40 years later.
The tourist map suggested a good place for a photo of the cathedral, from across a convenient lake. We reached the remote spot just as the light turned magical. I took my photo and immediately the heavens opened. There was nowhere to shelter and we were drenched.
The boat trip was next. I saved a euro on the fare for being over the maximum adult age. There’s very little concession for the English speaking tourist because there are so few of us. The commentary was in German and I was given a book the size of a Thomas Mann novella, a literal translation of the one hour commentary. I could either read the whole thing and see nothing or see everything but learn nothing. I chose to see everything as we cruised around the old town admiring the efficiently rebuilt Hanseatic buildings.
Next was the house of the German writer, Thomas Mann, a favourite of the three of us but it was closed for renovation. We therefore moved on to the great Willy Brandt’s house. If ever there was a shining light in German politics it was him. Born in 1913, he rejected Hitler and went into exile. He returned after the war and was mayor of West Berlin when the Wall was built. Later he was Chancellor and in both roles he laid the foundations for a reunification of Germany and the uniting of Europe. He promised to reopen the Brandenburg Gate and that was achieved before his death in 1992. We spent a moving couple of hours in the house and went into the garden to inspect a panel of the Berlin Wall. I’m old enough to have touched it in situ but now it stands as a fitting memorial to the great man.
There was time for a couple more churches, both of which were destroyed in 1942. We climbed the tower of St Peter’s to see the view then visited the Marienkirche which was perhaps the most impressive of them all. The original bells which crashed to the ground during the bombing have been preserved where they landed.
The final instalment for this pilgrimage will be tomorrow, probably at the airport.
Pilgrimage 
Brilliantly done Tim! Thank you for Sharing! Reva
my pleasure!
well done Tim on finishing this pilgrimage, we have really enjoyed your blog with great writing and photos, Jane and family
Thanks Jane it’s been a really interesting and enjoyable walk. See you all soon
Really enjoyed the blog Tim.
I think Dorothy Bromley went to Lubeck just after the war.How different it is now.Amazing rebuild.
it’s difficult to imagine how the city centre looked during and after the war. And let’s not forget all the casualties of the bombing
Hi Tim
Looks like an impressive cathedral , great photos. Shame about the weather !
Cath and Dave
Sent from my iPad
impressive cathedral and impressive reconstruction. Just reflect on how quickly Germany recovered from WW2 compared to Britain. I remember living opposite a bomb site in the late 1970s
I have immensely enjoyed your pilgrimage reports, Tim.
thanks and I’ve enjoyed writing them
Beautiful photos of the old town of Lubeck, Tim; they show that rebuilding can be well worth the effort and expense. I wish NZ could follow this example and finish restoring the Christchurch cathedral which was massively damaged in the 2011 earthquake. Currently it’s on hold for lack of sufficient funds. Looking forward to the final instalment!
I know Germany had a lot of help with the reconstruction after WW2 but they certainly accomplished a quick rebuild unlike Britain. Hope your cathedral gets finished soon
As always, I shall miss your blog once you’re back home. It is always a highlight of the evening!
writing them has always been the highlight of my evening. Glad you enjoyed them
that’s triggered a memory
standing on the dock in Santander and hearing the Berlin Wall had been knocked down and thinking of a polish girl who I had met in 1978 on an international youth camp in Essex explaining to me she couldn’t talk to me for long as her friend might report her
horrendous to live under such non stop repression. I saw a clip of Willy Brandt addressing the huge May Day gathering in West Berlin. He told them they were all here, celebrating of their own accord unlike the crowds on the other side who were ordered to attend.
What an amazing blog, Tim. I don’t know how you manage to get so much informative factual detail into posts such as this, whilst on a walking holiday.
I cycled to RAH last night for an amazing contemporary Prom featuring Ibrahim Maalouf and Arooj Aftab. You must catch it on BBC Sounds. Please let me know some of the dates you are going by email to peterandjulie@blueyonder.co.uk
Cheers, Peter
Well done Tim – I have been ever present throughout your pilgrimage despite the lack of comments and thoroughly enjoyed your witty commentary and photos. Safe journey home – David
Thanks David. I always enjoy following your walks too
Thanks Peter, I appreciate your comment. Travelling at walking pace really helps me think about what I’m seeing.
The Proms programme is so good this year I could visit almost any night so we’ll get something organised
What an interesting day you had and the photographs are stunning as uaual. I have just read up on Willy Brandt – an important figure and certainly accomplished a lot for Germany and others after WW2. I can’t believe its been 30 days already!! Lynn
What an interesting day in Lubeck. I have just finished reading up on Willy Brandt – what a difference he made. Stunning photos as usual. I can’t believe its been 30 days !! Lynn
Hi Lynn sometimes it feels like 300 days but there’s nothing more reliable than the end. Hopefully we’ll meet one day. Have a great trip to Denmark
Great pictures and well done for another walk completed 👏