2018

Day 22 – Trefcon, a rural idyll but missing two things

We had a short 22km walk to a gite in the middle of nowhere, a place called Trefcon which offers the only accommodation for miles around. Naturally there is no bar in the hamlet so we are sitting here swatting flies and wondering whether we should have tackled the whole 50km trek to the next town in one day. How did circumstances conspire to land us here on the night when England kick off their World Cup campaign? No beer or TV in the gite.

Last night’s camp site held a deposit against us not washing the dishes or stealing a cup so once the hut was spotless we stood to attention while the manager carried out a detailed inspection. We were given the thumbs up and headed back into town for breakfast in a typical pavement cafe. Unfortunately the town had no such offering. There were hairdressers galore, banks, butchers and even a kebab restaurant. Eventually we bought a couple of apricot Danish pastries and sat outside a bar. Paul organised the coffees and returned with two reasonable cups and a little jug of warm milk. He must have a way with these French people.

Before finishing the subject of breakfast I need to say a few things.

  1. I consider myself an expert on apricot Danish pastries
  2. I have been to Denmark many times and have no recollection of Danish pastries being particularly Danish
  3. The French make the best Danish pastries and are happy to serve them to British people
  4. The apricot pastries we ate for breakfast today were the best I’ve ever eaten. There was no time to make a photograph.

After breakfast we visited the tourist office to get our credentials stamped. As usual we asked if there were many pilgrims. “Oh yes, many pilgrims”. When was the last one? “Saturday perhaps”.

Our walk took us through a little woodland and lots of fields of potatoes and greens. The landscape is flat. The temperature is cool, peaking at 20 and there has been no rain since England. I suspect the barometer might be pointing to “Change”

Derelict building on the Somme

Today’s path

The legacies of two world wars

Our picnic stop

A bed of roses

About Tim

Pilgrim on the Via Francigena

12 comments on “Day 22 – Trefcon, a rural idyll but missing two things

  1. Bad idea to stay in Trefcon 😟. Étreillers would have be much more better.. I will Five you later a very good B&B-adress in Laon.

    • We could not find anything in Etreillers. We plan to stay in Tergnier tomorrow then Laon. Suggestions welcomed

      • In Tergnier you have no bog choice: it‘s the Le Paon. In Laon (very nice town!) I recommend „La Petit Mont-martre“ a very nice B&B! Tel. 03 23 79 32 39 of 06 62 06 32 39

      • Hi, we have booked in at Le Paon. Thanks for the tip, I’ll try to book La Petit Mont-martre. In Laon. Are you going to Rome or stopping in Switzerland?

  2. I will stay for two days in Reims. Meet my family. Stay in Switzerland for two days as well, close to Vevey. And then my plan is to go to Rome….

    • Let’s keep in touch and see if we can meet somewhere. We will also stop in Reims and probably other places before Vevey. We’re always keen to get tips thanks

  3. John Shuttleworth

    Hi Tim. Believe Danish pastries were originally ‘invented’ in Austria but you seem to have become a bit of an expert. Dam bad planning to end up in the middle of nowhere and miss the England game. No worries we won 2-1. First half good but 2nd half painful. Kane got both!

    • Sorry to have missed it. It would have been a rare treat to see England win a World Cup match. By my calculations with the results so far, if England win their remaining matches we will be World Champions

  4. Roger Clarkson

    Racing in Dieppe today but for some reason The Queen has dressed up in yellow and taken a carriage ride to Ascot instead.

    • Ah the English season is in full swing. Hope you are a winner

  5. I am loving you humour , chuckle, chuckle

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