A lovely walk today. We are properly in the Apennines. You know that when you ascend 1870m and descend 780m in one day. Phew! Two stages and 41km have brought us from Fornovo di Taro to the top of the Cisa Pass. That’s because we couldn’t find any accommodation in between. Paul phoned every hostel on my list and they all said “completo”. It’s possible this is a stock response to any incoming telephone call in English. Fortunately we secured a couple of beds in the hostel at the Pass to ensure progress continues.
I wouldn’t recommend doing both stages in one day unless you want a challenge. We departed at 5.05, well before sunrise and passed through the only village with a bar, but long before it opened. That meant breakfast didn’t come until the end of the stage in Cassio at 10.00. After five hours of tough walking with nothing to eat since yesterday lunchtime, we were ready for breakfast. I ordered a large latte and two croissants followed by a large crusty ham and cheese baguette.
The Italians have come up with the perfect solution for the hot summers: Frizzante. Every bar sells this fizzy water and it provides rapid rehydration particularly when mixed with fruit juice. So at every stop we shout for Frizzante and juice in giant bottles.
During our Frizzante stop in Berceto I heard some British voices and was amazed to discover two British ladies (A&M) who had recently met each other. A is walking from the GSB Pass while M has just started. We met again this evening at the hostel on the Cisa Pass. As is often the case in mountain hostels, There is quite a gathering of pilgrims, walkers, cyclists etc. We had a pleasant evening. In fact it’s a bit like the Camino.
The weather changed as we approached the Pass