Day 19 – The scenic coastal route

The little town of Tosa, where we stayed last night, scored highly on my list of essentials for the walking pilgrimage. Although I’m quite content sleeping on a futon laid out on tatami mats, it’s nice occasionally to check into a regular hotel with normal beds and nobody in the slightest bit concerned about which type of slippers you might be wearing.

Sandrine, Cecile and I ate dinner in an Italian restaurant up the road. No one appeared to have any connection with Italy but we had a fine pasta, pizza and salad meal.

And next door was a proper bakery with cafe attached. The cafe was serving Japanese breakfast but they were more than happy for us to grab bread and croissants from the store and to provide coffee.

After that we nipped up the mountain to Temple 35 which, like so many temples in the hills, was serene and beautiful. Candles flicker and incense hangs in the air. It’s relaxing to sit and listen to a small group of pilgrims chanting. These pilgrims always travel by car. We were passed on the way up by two New Zealand ladies on bicycles. They told me they had hired the bikes for 21 days to tackle the whole pilgrimage route.

The temperature and humidity remains high, 29 degrees and I was lucky to buy some more sun cream in the Tosa supermarket.

We said goodbye to Cecile at Temple 36 and set off along the coastal road which, according to the map book, offers breathtaking views. It was right. There are two breathtaking views but everywhere else the view was obscured by trees. The road climbed and fell over the cliffs with many hairpin bends. I wish I’d been driving one of the many Toyota Supras which were being flung around the bends at speeds way in excess of the 40Km speed limit. It looked great fun. But it was no place to be walking.

On our way to Temple 35
Could these be grapefruit?
Entrance gate to Temple 35
Temple 35 very nice

The 82 steps to Temple 36.
I wish we could have stayed longer at Temple 36 but we were late for our scenic route
Breathtaking view No 1
Breathtaking view No 2
The scenic coastal route.
I’m fluent in Hiragana otherwise we’d still be looking for tonight’s accommodation
The lady owner of this old house in a small bill down on the coast helps Sandrine plan tomorrow’s accommodation

3 comments on “Day 19 – The scenic coastal route

  1. Peter Mastenko

    Looks amazing Tim! Am catching up with your posts. By coincidence we visited a Buddhist Temple near Wimbledon Common recently on ‘Open House’ weekend. That is also very beautiful and set in tranquil gardens.
    Enjoy your adventure!

  2. Philippa

    Lovely views indeed. Interesting that you met 2 cycling Kiwis as I’ve not spoken to anyone here who’s talked about making a pilgrimage in Japan (other than the hundreds currently there for the Rugby World Cup)!

    • Well they were Kiwis but living in Australia which explains everything!

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