Once Brewed to Bellingham
It’s not what it used to be, the night life along Hadrian’s Wall. I ate sausages and mash at the Twice Brewed pub last night. It has its own brewery and has brewed beer for over 500 years (twice) but doesn’t have Sky Sports so I went back to the B&B for an early night.
I used to work with a chap who wrote paperback novels about the saucy goings on among the centurions on Hadrian’s Wall. He could write 3 or 4 books a year and would pay Tesco a small contribution to stock his books at the No 2 Bestseller position. He could make £5000 per book. Think about it!
There was a nice couple from London at the B&B who are walking the Hadrian’s Wall path. I walked with them for a short distance this morning. But then the dreaded signpost pointed me north into the hostile and empty lands beyond the wall that I must navigate until I reach the end of the Pennine Way on Friday. Will I meet any of those wild and fierce tribes so feared by the Romans? [spoiler] No.
It’s a desolate, empty landscape. Bits of forest and sheep. The occasional horse or two. The going was good to soft, heavy in places.
Bellingham is a nice place, practically the last village before Scotland. There’s an old church from the 12th century dedicated to St Cuthbert (who is buried on the Holy Island of Lindisfarne) and a good range of shops including a bookshop, a bakery and a little CoOp. Also several pubs including The Cheviot where I’m currently having dinner.
As I thought, the Danish father and son, Trolls and Bent, who I met in Middleton are now in my B&B. They have rounded up a few friends from Oxford, their home town so I think we may walk together tomorrow. Fortunately we will be a group of six which is the maximum allowed under the UK Government’s latest virus rules. That virus must be laughing it’s head off.
My B&B has a well in the garden which St Cuthbert himself dug and the water flows throughout the year, whatever the weather. A miracle.