Inverarnan to Tyndrum, 21Km
Today was the first rainy day but it was only an intermittent shower or two, nothing too intense. It felt a lot more like the Highlands and that’s why I started the day with a bowl of porridge and a bacon sandwich. There’s nowhere to stop en route to Tyndrum except for a grim camp site where the owner barricaded himself behind plastic screens like banks used to do in the Wild West and sold Nescafé in plastic cups at prices that had you reaching for your credit card. It didn’t seem like a photo opportunity but I wish I’d captured it.
Colin & Rachel joined me for breakfast and we walked together again. That was very nice because I much prefer company to solitude especially when they bring a little stove to make coffee. The little stove with its gas canister comes from a world I’ve never inhabited and I looked on in wonder as water was scooped out of the burn and boiled in a minute or two.
There was plenty of overnight rain and the burns were flowing with renewed vigour. We even saw some possible midges. Not having seen a midge before, I couldn’t be sure but we are heading into the midge heartland and Rachel said they were midges. I assumed they’d introduce themselves in a manner more fitting to their reputation. In the Po Valley there was no mistaking the mosquito even if you’d never met one before. They were everywhere. I’ve now been in Scotland for a month and despite all the grim warnings it’s only now that I’ve had a sighting of them, if that’s what they were. There was a small gathering on the ground enjoying the rain shower and having a midge-like meeting, like we used to do before 2020. They ignored me. I could have laid my bare arm beside them without disturbing their discussion. I have so many bottles of midge spray in my bag. I hope I haven’t wasted my money.
The West Highland Way continues to impress. We had lots more hills today, mostly hidden by clouds, some attractive woodlands and many waterfalls.