Day 7 – Onwards to Herzogenburg with renewed enthusiasm

Würmla to Herzogenburg, 20Km

Clever Hotel, 69 euros

Last night’s Gerhard Burger guest house was really quite impressive, all things considered. I had my own two room apartment with a new wet room which actually worked and didn’t flood the place. I just had time to dash to the little shop next door to buy my dinner (a bread roll, jam doughnut and a can of beer) before it closed. This morning, Josef, the owner, made us both a decent breakfast and told me he gets a steady trickle of pilgrims, most of whom arrive quite late and without a booking. I wanted to tell him why that was but I let it go. I also never asked him why he couldn’t have supplied a cheap litre of body wash but the whole bill was only 42 euros so I departed fairly content.

It was a pleasant day’s walk across fields of wheat and corn and there were several busy hares attending to the crops. I’m starting to understand how this Camino works. On the approach to every settlement there is an information board explaining everything of interest to the pilgrim. It’s all in German, of course, but all I have to do is wave my iPhone across it and everything magically appears in English. Accommodation is listed if it exists with a contact telephone number. So, once you’ve had enough, you just reach for your telephone and tell them you’re on your way.

I was looking forward to staying with the Augustinian Canons at the Herzogenburg Abbey tonight and enjoying a second evening dinner of dry bread. I’m dutifully stamping my credentials so I would have qualified for a cell but it is full with refugees from the war. Instead I tried the telephone number on the information board but there was no answer. The good news is that I’m back in the real world and Booking.com is alive to my every need. After a couple of clicks I secured a bed for tonight and tomorrow while eating my cereal bar on a pilgrim bench among the poppies.

Also, I saw a person coming towards me on a path through the fields this morning. At first it was a blur in the distance but it turned out to be a young woman pushing a pram with a newborn baby inside. Things are looking up.

The Gerhard Burger guest house in Würmla
I’m no expert. Is that a hare?
A nice Camino touch and the yellow arrow pointing the way
The Jerusalem Way comes along here
Pilgrim accommodation and the information board

8 comments on “Day 7 – Onwards to Herzogenburg with renewed enthusiasm

  1. Hi Tim. It sounds you are having an adventure. I have to say, for me it would all be worthwhile just to see the hares. I adore them (yes that photo is of a hare) and have a great early childhood memory of two hares boxing on an old tree stump outside our house. Hope the accommodation becomes easier to find further along the way.

    • There’s lots of hares around here. You’d love it. I hope your family were not too disappointed by the football on Sunday. It was soo close

  2. Walkmag

    Haha your enthusiasm and wit is back. Go forth and conquer !!

    • Thank you Maggie, I will! There’s always highs and lows on a walk but I prefer not to have a low at the start. I’m starting to discover how Austria works so hopefully some highs are coming my way soon

  3. Hi Tim: just caught up on your first seven days; we’re living parallel lives with a twist, you on two feet, me on two wheels. I would certainly prefer walking to riding for the simple reason that one can walk and hydrate with litres of beer. Unfortunately beer and motorcycles are a lethal combination. Have fun, order the large. Cheers

    PS: when you get close to Luzern you’ll have a place to stay: I’ll alert Mark and Erika.

    • Hi Paul, it’s great to hear from you and I hope you make it to the North Pole. I remember what a good time we had with Mark & Erika and it would be great to see them again but you mustn’t force me on them. I’m not even sure how far I’m walking this year and I may save Switzerland for next time. It all seems such a long way away and I’m trapped with a 90 day visa. So I’m just trucking along and will see what happens. All the best for your massive trip and I hope you see some cinemas

  4. Tassie Kaz

    Hi Tim,
    I’m very late jumping on the TimboTrain this time around, but now I’ve finally caught up.
    Sounds quite a logistically challenging walk…mostly due to you-know-what I’m guessing?
    How did you come to selecting this path?
    What credencial are you using? Is it a specific one for the trail?
    Oh…& Welcome to the World of Counting Days for the Schengen…a whole new experience for you! 😄
    Glad to be following you once again. 🤗
    Happier Trails!

    • Hi Karen, I thought you’d given up on me! You’re most welcome on the TimboTrain. A lot of things are strange in Austria. They want real money not a card or contactless payment. The guesthouses mostly don’t use Booking.com but rely on the telephone. But they don’t answer calls from outside Austria because they think it’s a scammer. There’s no accommodation list so you must turn up and hope there is a guesthouse in the place. That’s a bit stressful if you’re tired and the nearest hotel is 10k away. How I chose this path is a short story. I wanted to walk from Denmark south through Germany but I thought northern Germany might be dull so at the last minute or so I decided to walk east to west across Europe back to Le Puy where I started in 2017 but it will take two trips. Thank you for the welcome to the non Schengen world. You know it wasn’t my idea. I can stay in England but Scotland is starting to look a little dodgy.
      I’m using a Conf of St James credential because I’m paid up.
      When there’s a dull day I’ll write a blog about some of the strange things in Austria.
      Tim x

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