Krems an der Donau to Aggsbach-Dorf, 26Km
Gasthof Lechner zur Kartause, 60 euros
I’ll drink to that. It’s just a shame they’re all elsewhere. It would be easier for God to bless all pilgrims on the Austrian Camino: I’m right here.
Last night’s room was pleasant. In fact I had an apartment with a choice of bedrooms and a kitchen which was well stocked with everything you’d need to cook a party meal including a selection of balsamic vinegars. There was a good range of cleaners and enough crockery and cutlery so we wouldn’t need to use our fingers which was just as well because, once again, there was no soap or shower gel. What is wrong with Austria? Does nobody wash?
I woke up soon after 5am and checked on Google maps for the opening time of the Spar supermarket for breakfast and my packed lunch. It said “opening at 7.15am on Friday”. I’m losing track of the days but I knew it was Thursday. Of course, how could I have forgotten, after starting and finishing my schooling in a Convent? It’s 40 days after Easter and the Virgin Mary ascended into Heaven. Close all Austria, just like every Sunday. [update: Jesus ascended into Heaven on Ascension Day; Virgin Mary Assumption 15 August. Sorry, I should know that].
Fortunately the baker was already open. Everything was of the highest quality and the lowest quantity. I had a proper authentic cappuccino in a little 3-sip cup (no chance of the American bucketful). My lunch was a delicate bread roll with a slither of ham and cheese beautifully folded between a slice of cucumber and tomato. The croissant blew away when somebody opened the door. Next stop was the ATM.
Beautiful walk in the hills today, all wooded but charming, with the sunlight glistening through the leaves and the birds happily singing. The Austrians have protected their horned viper and it’s no longer endangered so careful where you put your foot in the leaves. The other one, the common viper grows to 1.5m so can be more easily tossed aside with your walking pole.
The highlight for the pilgrim (singular form) today was Maria Langegg, a lovely place in the valley where many miracles have occurred. This tiny village has a grand church and a charming restaurant serving a special Ascension Day menu.
Tomorrow it’s back into the hills for a short but energetic 20Km walk to Melk. However I’m sitting on the terrace of the Familie Lechner guest house sipping a green tea and admiring the view and my attention is caught by a road sign pointing down the road, “Melk 12Km”, it says. That’s the way to go if you’re in a hurry to get to Compostela.
Pilgrimage 
Wunderbar! Wie kommt dein deutsch voran?
Es ist Quatsch, aber wer muss schon Deutsch sprechen, wenn man Google Translate hat!
So what’s wrong with using floor cleaner on your person?
Bleach!!!
Loving this blog, but cannot let the error go. Ascension Day when Jesus ascended; 15 August Assumption of Our Lady. Not sure of the theological difference between ascending and being assumed…
OMG! You’re right. I feel such an idiot. I knew that. Thank you so much, Mary. I hope someone will explain the difference between ascending and being assumed.
The difference is who raises who
Thanks Dave. That makes sense.
For clarity – Jesus is Devine and doesn’t needs God’s help but Mary, not being Devine does.
When I see those Jerusalem Way signs I’m in awe of your walk to Jerusalem I must re-read your blog when I get home. Is it still available?
Thanks Tim – Yes still available and maybe a book at the end of the year. The trouble with these blogs is you cannot correct spelling errors – Devine = Divine (Hopefully noted before Mary picks it up) 🙂
Dear, dear Tim…you’re such a scream! 😄🤣😁😂😆 I can just picture you ever so nonchalantly (auto-correct set me straight on this one) flipping a 1.5m viper 🐍 aside with your trusty walking pole.
Your Austrian blog & my Norwegian blog…both currently unwritten & the latter likely to remain so…could read like plagiarized (again, auto-correct) versions of each other!
Don’t worry about whom ascended & whom assumed, it’s the journey not the destination right?! 🤭
Gute Reise 🤗
Correct. And talking about the journey, almost everyone walking a long distance will take the shortest route. Today I have a choice of a hard 20Km on the official route over the hills or an easy 12Km stroll through the valley. I don’t like having to make that choice and this Camino should behave itself. I’ve booked accommodation otherwise I’d just do 30Km down the valley. It looks like it’s going to be a lot of sweating for little gain.
Hi Tim,
Paul here.
I recently walked the section Wien to Melk and the most difficult part, by far, was from Mouton ad D. to Melk. It’s definitely advisable to break up the walk in Langegg, or to follow your guesthouse recommendation.
In Herzogenburg (the day before) you can stay in the monastery.
It’s arranged on a donation basis and they are very welcoming.
Whatever amount you pay, you get a substantial dinner and breakfast included with your stay.
Hi Paul, thanks for the update. I know someone who will walk in August and will pass on the info to him. I love to stay in a monastery but Herzogenburg was full of refugees last year
Hi Tim. I did ask the very helpful woman (Elizabeth) that works in the gift shop and who secured my stay for me about the refugees. She said that they were only there for a few weeks and that now they have all been housed within the community. When I was there, the monastery was completely empty. Your friend just needs to visit the monastery shop when they arrive (first left after main entrance) and Elizabeth will call for Eva, who will take them to their room and prepare something nice to eat. The showers were amazing! 🙂
Thanks again, the whole place looked amazing. I’ve just finished the 2nd half of the walk, from Konstanz to LePuy-en-Velay – amazing experience
Wow! That’s some walk! I did that walk about 10 years ago. I turned right at the first big lake and went via Luzern. The section from Geneva to Le Puy is tough (as I’m sure you know). It follows the GR 57 (?) and is basically a collection of weekend hiking routes all joined together. This makes for a lot of hill walking and illogical routes. Still, I have warm memories of that walk. I imagine that your last section will be all the way to Finisterre.
I was going to take the Alpine Panorama to Lucerne too but decided to stick to the Via Jakobi. I’ve already walked from Le Puy to Compostela so I guess I need to find another Camino feeder route but it’s the last thing on my mind right now!
I meant to ask, have you seen any pilgrims in Austria?