Day 19 – Whitsun in Salzburg

Eugenbach to Salzburg, 16Km

Hotel Markus Sittikus, 95 euros.

It’s strange how you can pay the same price for last night’s luxury in Eugenbach as the previous night’s horror show in Vöcklamarkt. The Landhotel Gschirnwirt had everything from a spa to a school room where the very young could pretend they were old enough to go to school.

Breakfast was a lavish affair with food from all corners of the Austro-Hungarian empire: cereals, cheese, cold meats, sausages, eggs, breads, croissants etc.. There were exotic teas, the finest example of German engineering making the coffee and jams from every fruit except the orange.

It was another hot “29 feels like 32” day as I crossed the pre-Alpine meadows. Jakobsweg suggested a short diversion up a steep hill to visit the Maria Plain basilica and I’m glad I did. It’s Whit Sunday and High Mass was in full swing. The air was thick with incense and the choir sung their hearts out. I arrived just in time to meet the collection box doing the rounds.

The adjoining Maria Plain hotel offered an impressive view of Salzburg from its terraces with service and prices to match. I took a small beer while the staff, all wearing national costume, brought huge quantities of food for my neighbours who must have missed breakfast. I’m relieved we don’t have national costume in Britain; nothing makes a man look more ridiculous although it suited the girls.

Strange thing. A pot of marmalade caught my eye in the hotel and not just any marmalade. Tiptree ‘Crystal’ marmalade. It was almost empty and was hidden in a corner. You won’t find that in your local supermarket. My guess is that it was left there by some Lord or Lady on the way home from the Grand Tour, knowing that a compatriot would find it.

The cycle ways into Salzburg were busy but I had my own path alongside the river Salzach to guide me into the city. I soon found a nice hotel and negotiated a better rate than was advertised online. I’ll take a rest day here. A massive storm is now raging. I wonder if they have Whitsun Weddings here [cue Philip Larkin].

The breakfast cheese board for you, Cheezywoman
Landhotel Gschirnwirt in Eugenbach
This is presumably what you get when you order a new crucifixion and bench set
I’ve seen many of these Happy Birthday notices and displays. This one is to grandpa. Translation please, Mike
Hallwang church and Maypole
Hallwang War Memorial
Milking time
High Mass in Maria Plain basilica
Maria Plain basilica and restaurant
Leftover marmalade
Salzburg Fortress
Chocolate and raspberry cake for you Celia and please share it with David. More tomorrow

6 comments on “Day 19 – Whitsun in Salzburg

  1. It seems to be a paraphrased quote from a German Star Trek spoof, starring Captain Kork. Local humour. Beam me up Timmy!

  2. oh my that cheeseboard is pretty impressive – and it seems like you hit the jackpot with crystal orange and choc raspberry cake !!! Keep an eye out for the fabulous alpine or mountain cheeses (typically a style of cheese making rather then one variety) found in Swiss, French, Austrian and Italian Alps with cows milk – ie: Emmental, Appenzeller, Compte, Tête de Moine, Gruyere, Raclette, Beaufort etc. Even better melted.

    • That’s a great list, I’ll look out for them. Melted? Now we’re talking!

  3. Tassie Kaz

    Ahhh Timbo…you truly are a treasure. I love the way you slip those little gems into your write-up; completely inheralded & often without so much as an exclamation mark.
    Todays favourite for me; ‘arriving just in time for the collection box’…hilarious.

    I do have to pull you up on one thing though…sharing cake?! No way…anyone who dared to come anywhere near my slab of (insert daily offering) would cop a cake fork to the back of the hand (lots of !!! called for here but I shall resist…)

    • Absolutely agree – we must all have our cake and eat it!

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