2023

Day 26 – Ups and Downs on the Pilgrimage

Romagnieu to Le Pin (Charavines), 20 Km

Yesterday was a day of mostly downs except for the terrain, of course. We had several difficulties to overcome. As we’ve come to expect, the pilgrim house turned out to be another semi-derelict farm house, probably occupied and then vacated many decades ago. It really was a grim place, even by the standards of us hardened pilgrims and, as you’d expect, nothing worked very well in the building. We also had issues around group dynamics that threatened international relations.

It was a bit of a shame because, with the right lighting cameraman and a proficient scriptwriter, we could have been a scene from any French film extolling the virtues of the French rural ideal. We dined on the terrace of the owner’s house. Madame had sacrificed her finest chicken and the remnants were bubbling away on the stove while we started with her salad, which like everything was a concoction of leftovers. The bread was fresh and plentiful, the rose wine was crisp and cold and the beer was local and 7.2 percent.

Another pilgrim was also staying, David from Avignon who was briefly able to tell me that he booked this haven two years ago and that he expected to arrive in Le Puy next Tuesday. It’s possible something was lost in the translation. Meanwhile, Chuck held court and the need for a scriptwriter was paramount.

After the autopsy we moved on to the first of four cheese and dessert courses including a cake made by one of Madame’s friends.

As the night descended, we retired to our house. Robert and Michaela, who have been my fellow pilgrims since Saturday, invited me upstairs to their room for more beer. I wondered whether it was better to fall from upstairs or be crushed by the collapsing timbers in our downstairs room. We made a plan for an early start and I finally retired. My bed looked uninviting. It probably saw action in World War 2 and I decided to sleep in my bag on top of the covers rather than venture inside. That’s why the blog was erratic. There was no time to upload many photos but I’ve since added them.

Today was all Up once we bid Chuck a fond farewell and the three of us had a pleasant walk to Le Pin. Tonight our accommodation is a decent hotel by the lake with crisp white sheets but no Madame to look after us. Take your pick.

Last night’s pilgrim house
Madame, left, her husband and us jolly pilgrims after breakfast
Today’s church at Valencogne
Le Croix Charpenne
More beehives
Refuelling station
We’re down by Lac de Paladru tonight

13 comments on “Day 26 – Ups and Downs on the Pilgrimage

  1. Keep on keeping on. Royal Ascot has started and M has gone to Stonehenge for the solstice.
    You could be gardening.

    • Sounds nice and I will be gardening when I get back, no doubt. Enjoy Royal Ascot

  2. Jane Van Buren

    Loving your blog. Hilarious as always!! And it looks all so beautiful.
    Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦

    • Hi Jane, great to hear from you. My little camera has a setting to make everything look beautiful. We’re in Vancouver in September but I don’t think you live that side. Hope we can have another cup of tea one day

      • Jane Van Buren

        Let’s keep in touch and who knows when or where our paths may cross again!! Meanwhile I shall continue to follow your annual pilgrimages!!

  3. Great account as ever Tim. ‘Grim’ you say. Sounds a bit like Brothers Grimm at times. But…….,. I am very jealous of it all. I HOPE to have a go at Via de la Plata in autumn.

    • I think that’s a bit of a tough one, the Plata. I’ll leave it until I have a good excuse like old age

  4. Crikey sounds very basic – my guess is that at some point in time you will declare all the pilgrim accommodation behind you?

  5. Dave Conway

    Tim de Florette perhaps with Eric Cantona starring as a pilgrim… At least the calorie count is as g
    high as ever.

    • and I’m losing weight as usual. I love Jean de Florette and can’t wait to see it again

  6. Philippa T

    Cows, beehives, orange flowers around the cross – it all looks idyllic!

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