Bellegarde-Poussieu to Choron, 20Km
We had to cross the Rhône one last time this morning. It’s now a very large river and bridges are very expensive so it was built to carry the busy road and little else. There was no escaping the fact that the GR footpath people were stumped in their quest to safely lead walkers from Clonas to Chavanay. In the end they pointed us up the steep embankment and onto the edge of the road behind the Armco barrier and pointed us towards the bridge in the distance. Have you ever broken down on a motorway and jumped over the barrier for protection? You’ll know it’s an unpleasant place full of debris dating back to the invention of the wheel. The bridge had nothing to detain the pedestrian so we were grateful to reach Chavanay.and to face the difficult decision in the boulangerie, whether to choose the pain au chocolate, the pain aux raisins or, for a change, one of those apple pastries to accompany the cafe au lait.
Approaching Chavanay, we saw a large house completely covered in a mural of a pilgrim scene. It looked so realistic that it took awhile to realise what it was and even longer to see that the whole scene was painted.
After Chavanay the path resumed its normal character, heading uphill through vineyards and farmland and woods. The Chapelle du Calvaire, high above Chavanay featured beautiful frescoes and much pilgrim paraphernalia as well as a stamp for our credential. Later still, in Bessey, we stopped at the Eglise de la Nativité de Saint Jean-Baptiste and lit a candle for protection from the Auvergne dogs.
Once again the Guide Jaune has introduced us to another superb home for the night. It’s a really lovely house with a magnificent garden and only available to bona fide pilgrims. However much water you drink while walking, you always arrive with a hot dry throat and Madame welcomed us with a bottle of chilled apple juice from her own orchard. She is busy in the kitchen preparing dinner and the total cost is about 50 euros each. Once again, I wouldn’t swap the experience for the finest hotel.
Pilgrimage 
“Once again, I wouldn’t swap the experience for the finest hotel.”
Love this.
Absolutely true!
Yes, that mural is quite something!
My guess for the equipment photo; an apple 🍎 or grape 🍇 crusher?
You’re a winner!
Bridge probably replaced a ferry boat.
Is it some kind of irrigation device?
No it’s a grape press. The vines are a clue
I am really getting envious of all the French pastries and home cooked food you are having to consume! Great to see happy chickens running free.
Yes I thought of you when I saw those happy chickens
So how do the Madams know that you are a Bona Fide Pilgrim? Is it something to do with your appearance?
I think they can sniff a pilgrim from afar
Kia ora, Tim, the mural is stunning. No matter how closely I look I cannot see a bona fide entrance so is it just a blank wall? I love the disarray of the French farmyard – total contrast to the interior of the house and the dinner – yin and yang. I’m wondering if the donkey photo was a reflection of your condition at the time!? Kia kaha.
Yes it’s a blank wall at the end of the houses but oh so clever.
The donkey looks better!
I think the answer to Nick’s question is your stamp book.
Yes that’s always the acid test