2023

Day 32 – Le Puy-en-Velay

Saint Julien Chapteuil to Le Puy-en-Velay, 20Km

It didn’t take long to exit rural France and start the crawl towards the city of Le Puy-en-Velay this morning. Our first stop was St-Germain-Laprade where we visited the 12th century church (no stamp available). Next we crossed the Loire and walked along the left bank. And then finally we saw Le Puy, its famous statue of Notre Dame de France easily visible above the city skyline. We threaded our way through the narrow streets until we turned a corner and there above us was the Cathédrale Notre-Dame-de-l’Annonciation du Puy-en-Velay.

My German friends were overcome by the emotion of the moment and 30 minutes passed before we were able to climb the many steps and enter [one of] the most important pilgrimage site[s] in France.

It felt like only yesterday when, in 2017, I arrived there to start my second pilgrimage to Pamplona. What a wonderful walk that was. I thought about it for a long time and also all the other walks I’ve been fortunate enough to do since then. My extended Camino from Bratislava to Compostela is now complete.

I looked again at the statue of St James, at the fever stone but most of all at the little Black Madonna, a close relation of the one in Einsiedeln which I saw a few weeks ago.

We have rented a house for the night, just 99 euros. It’s amazing. A narrow property on three floors. The owner bought it two years ago when it was just a dilapidated shell and has made a beautiful home for us.

I intend to return to the Cathedral tomorrow morning and visit the statue and the St-Michel d’Aiguilhe chapel so I’ll write a little bit about them tomorrow.

Stone cross with sparrow
Stone house with rock garden
Every cow I passed was behind an electric fence. British farmers take note
The end of the countryside
Crossing the Loire
2022 and 2023 Bratislava to Le Puy-en-Velay

34 comments on “Day 32 – Le Puy-en-Velay

  1. a6bi2i

    Congratulations, Tim. Another epic journey. But who says it is the most important pilgrimage site in France?

    • Ah Mary, I knew you’d respond to that! I could quote UNESCO in 1998 when they made it a World Heritage site but let’s just say “one of the most important…” There is also Vézelay to be considered and that awful Lourdes town. Can you perhaps list the top five for us?

  2. Dave Conway

    Magnifique! Cath and I were there in 1982 – a real highlight of our tour. Well done Tim, a fantastic achievement.

    • Thanks both. I’m looking forward to my free day in Le Puy tomorrow before heading to the airport

  3. Cath Griffith

    Well done Tim . What a long journey. I’ve really enjoyed reading your daily update. Where to next year? Dave says can we have more pictures of the Puys! He really likes them. Cath

    • Hi Cath, I’m sure there will be one or two Puys tomorrow! I think next year somewhere flat, perhaps The Netherlands

  4. Congratulations Tim – Well walked!

    • Thanks David, it felt a bit short this year and I’m badly missing it at the moment

  5. Brilliant Tim. Well done. Very jealous, but in a good way. Tim

    • Hi Tim, I wish I was still walking. I did consider going down the Stevenson trail from Le Puy but it’s getting hot and I’m covered in mosquito bites so I took the lazy option of BA 365 homeward bound. Do let me know when you’re next down here

  6. You can’t stop now, it’s just getting interesting…..

  7. Peter Mastenko

    Congratulations Tim. It’s amazing how far you have walked in recent years!
    My vote goes to Rocamadour for a great Pilgrimage site. i bet Lourdes gets the most visitors…
    How’s your feet?

    • Rocamadour is a good tip, it sounds nice but it probably doesn’t have a Black Madonna? Lourdes has become a commercial horror. My feet are amazingly good although my Meindl shoes are suffering. I wore a similar pair for 2200Km to Rome and there was plenty of life left in them. Likewise every trip since. But this year the stitching has come apart and what little moisture I’ve encountered has gone straight in. I’m expecting a replacement pair when I get home, after all I only bought them last month and what’s 800Km? Barely worn in

    • Many congratulations Tim, just fantastic that is yet again a wonderful achievement, will we see you at the Jolly Farmer on Wednesday?

  8. Peter Mastenko

    However Rocamadour also gets crowded in Summer. Over a million visitors a year, and the main street below is very commercial.

    • Hi Peter, it’s been good to hear from you and try to get to a Prom. Let me know

      • Peter Mastenko

        Thanks for the reminder re the Proms. I see there are many good ones this year. I’ll have to do some planning!

  9. Lucymdavies@aol.com

    Congratulations, another amazing pilgrimage. I have looked forward each day to read your posts written with such detail and humour. The photos are superb.

  10. Congratulations Tim on an epic walk. Thank you for posting the map to remind us of the distance and challenges you have faced. FYI the first electric fence was fabricated by a New Zealand inventor, Bill Gallagher, who set up one using a car ignition to stop his horse from sitting on/against his car, around 1936/7. As for walking The Netherlands you’ll get bored by the endless flatness! Thanks for another enjoyable stroll vicarious though it has been for me. I’m envious. Kia kaha.

    • That’s interesting about the electric fence and a good invention. I hope British farmers roll them out one day

  11. Rebecca Wilkinson

    A wonderful Pilgrimage. Thanks for the enjoyable commentary and beautiful photographs.
    Next summer you might consider seeking out the Black Madonna of Czestochowa in Poland.

  12. Huguette

    Fantastic pilgrimage Tim, you ‘re the best.
    I enjoy your post , photos,
    Bravo 👏👏.
    Juste electric fence is old my parents used it when I was young.
    For once we hard found something.
    Today we go to Mauriac not far away from you are.
    Encore bravo Tim pour l exploit 😉

    • Bonjour Huguette, merci beaucoup and enjoy Mauriac. It’s not far from Le Puy-en-Velay

  13. Tassie Kaz

    Well done Tim…we’re thankful for your safe arrival at your planned destination.
    Enjoy pack-free wandering around before you don it once more for the comparatively quick trip home.
    Thanks for taking us with you! 🤗

    • Hi Karen, thanks for all your comments which, year after year, I enjoy reading very much. Enjoy your winter!

  14. Ruedi Bösch

    Congratulations Tim! It’s incredible how fast you’ve progressed and it’s great to see that you’ve reached Le Puy-en-Valey in good health. Thank you for your very entertaining daily reviews with the great photos. But I still say: you are a crazy guy 😉
    I wish you a good and safe return home and a lot of fun planning your next trip. Do you already know when and where to go?
    Sincerely, Ruedi

    • Hi Ruedi, you’re right! I am. Thanks very much for that fantastic evening and dinner. You saved me from starvation and it was so good to reminisce on our walk to Rome

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