The Sternhotel in Bonn is good value if you don’t have a heavy suitcase and can reach the top floor while the lift is out of order so I snapped it up. But it’s a long way back up when you’ve forgotten your credential.
Sundays are sacred in Germany and not much is open. Having declined the hotel’s 21 euro breakfast, my day started with a long search for an open cafe. Eventually I found a baker who served a good cappuccino and croissant.
Beethoven’s house was a disappointment. There was little of interest, just endless photocopies of music scores and documents, a violin he might have used as a child and some 17th century hearing aids which did not belong to him. No mention of the Heiligenstadt testament (a despairing letter he wrote to his brothers about his deteriorating hearing, at the age of 32) nor any reference to his recordings on the two Voyager spacecraft now among the stars.
The cathedral opened at midday, after Mass and I just caught the priest to get my credential stamped. I spent the rest of the day in the fascinating Museum of the History of the Federal Republic of Germany. Much to ponder on.
Anyway, enough of this idleness. Tomorrow I leave civilisation behind and start the walk across the Eifel to Trier.
Pilgrimage 
Hi Tim- a rather leisurely start to your pilgrimage! I don’t know the Eifel region but Google tells me of “fairy tale towns and medieval castles ” so looking forward to your daily reports.
Hi David, to be honest, I don’t know the Eifel or what to expect. It’s a bit remote so I expect to be alone but the food and beer should be good. I’m going non stop to Trier which is worth a stopover and then the Moselle. I will add a glass of local wine to my evening meal
Enjoy the walking Tim and the food, beer and wine. I have been sampling single malt whiskies from a couple of local distilleries at the completion of my coastal walks.
Celia and David testing
Sent from my iPad
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