2024

Day 13 – A Triumph, Father Kneipp and then Luxembourg

Mettendorf to Minden, 30Km

I shared the all too familiar experience of watching England lose a final, with three Dutch men last night. England knocked The Netherlands out in the semi final and they bore a certain resentment. Outside, their three powerful motorcycles were parked including a Triumph so that broke the ice. What an amazing machine. I’ve developed a love of these machines at the wrong end of life. The Triumph had a big screen for the satnav and hand warmers. Whatever would Steve McQueen say? But I doubt he’d have cleared even the first border fence in his attempted Great Escape on the latest Triumph.

Of course there are no more border controls around Germany. This afternoon I found myself at the very edge of the country, walking along the River Sauer. It’s the border with Luxembourg so naturally I crossed one of the bridges and walked a few kilometres to visit Echternach, the oldest city in Luxembourg. I bought an ice cream with some euro coins. None of that would have been possible when I was last in Luxembourg in 1979.

This morning I set off from Mettendorf with a cheese roll from the buffet and soon found myself in a forest of Douglas Fir trees. They were among the first immigrants from North America in 1827 and they love it here. These trees are tall but they let sunlight in so there is much plant life in the undergrowth. I saw another deer. You have to be Deer Aware here. No need to be Bear Aware.

Three more things of interest today:

First the Fraubillenkreuz stone which was hand cut into a cross by St Willibrord, founder of the Echternach monastery in 700. If you put your ear against the cross you can hear Frau Billen’s spinning wheel humming inside, which is true.

Secondly the path through the Wolfsschlucht gorge with its mystical rock formations dedicated to the Madonna.

Finally a real Kneipp therapy pool built high in the forest with EU funding. I saw a similar Kneipp treatment facility in Austria in 2022. It’s all about hydrotherapy. In fact it’s a complete system of healing developed by the 19th century German Catholic priest, Sebastian Kneipp. I contemplated a dip but instead settled on a seat by the edge of the pool. As I unwrapped my cheese roll, a young couple arrived, stripped off and took the therapy. Only in Germany.

A Dutch Triumph
A horse, shortly after Mettendorf
It’s a long way to Compostela
Among the Douglas Firs
A good forest
The timber is good for German floors
In the Wolfsschlucht
A pond rich in aquatic life
The Fraubillenkreuz
Among the Wolfsschlucht rocks
The Kneipp pool
The River Sauer, the border between Germany and Luxembourg
Echternach in Luxembourg

14 comments on “Day 13 – A Triumph, Father Kneipp and then Luxembourg

  1. stunning, and peaceful. What a beautiful place. I am envious Tim.

  2. I recognized gesundheit from the sign, but that’s it. Does the rest say that you have to strip naked to enter the pool??? 🙂

  3. Go on, treat yourself to a skinny dip Tim, you deserve it!

  4. vixwillb0beb78dca

    Kia ora, Tim. Thanks for the fauna photos. Clever of you to get the deer so clearly. Loved the landscape pictures. Glad that you’re enjoying it. Kia kaha.

    • Hi Vicky, I try to capture a sense of the walk and I’m glad you like the photos

  5. pics are awesome and as always, your stories are vivid and captivating!

    • Hi Reva, great to hear from you. I’m certainly enjoying this short little pilgrimage in Germany. It’s a beautiful part of Europe

  6. Philippa T

    What produces the humming sound in Frau Billen’s cross? Reminds me of listening to seashells and hearing the sea, but maybe there’s more to it than that? It’s a fascinating part of the Camino, despite there not being so many pilgrims!

    • Just the one pilgrim! Everything is better when it’s shared. I don’t know what makes the humming sound. It didn’t say.

  7. Tassie Kaz

    What a beautiful walk…reminds me of King Ludwig’s Way in places although opposite sides of the country.

    Gorgeous photos again…I would’ve wet my pants if I got a shot like your deer pic!

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