Triar to Merzkirchen, 29Km
It’s bizarre to define a long stage of a pilgrimage without any accommodation closer than an hour’s walk from the end. We are in the middle of nowhere here so, for me the easiest option was to arrange a taxi to return me to Trier. There were other possibilities such as abandoning the Camino and walking along the Moselle to Schengen. I think that would have been a more interesting route, particularly as the first few kilometres this morning took me along the river bank.
My first stop at the edge of Trier was the Abbey of St Matthias where the Apostle is buried, under the main altar. Matthias was in the squad from the beginning but only became an Apostle as a late substitute to replace Judas, after Jesus had ascended into Heaven. Nonetheless here I was, alone in the huge church, with one of the Twelve, reflecting on religion.
I couldn’t get a pilgrim stamp. Presumably they keep it in the shop which had not yet opened at the unearthly hour of my arrival.
I continued along the Moselle and it was the best part of the walk today. The river flowed, waterfowl did their thing and those wonderful long barges glided by. It was a shame to turn inland to face the hills. After the river it was all too familiar: hills, large fields of cereal, trees, some goats, a horse and a long way to go.
I reached the large village of Tawern to discover two bakeries, each with delicious German breads, pastries and cakes. One was also a cafe so I took two cups of green tea and an apricot croissant. We have to put up with such rubbish in the UK; badly made, mass produced dull loaves, laced with additives.
Merzkirchen was a dusty nowhere place. I cooled off in St Martin’s church for ten minutes and then the taxi arrived to return me to Trier.
Pilgrimage 
You can get artisan loaves in Lidl.
Thanks for the tip. I’ll try Lidl. I suspect a gap will remain between the German who bakes German bread on the premises and supermarkets who run tanning shops. After 20 barren years, a baker has finally opened in Weybridge. It’s a step forward and the Belgian buns and gingerbread men are excellent. I walk down in the morning to stock up and return humming Syd Barrett’s 1967 anthem “I’ve got a clan of gingerbread men
Here’s a man, there’s a man, lots of gingerbread men
Take a couple if you wish, they’re on the dish”
So its Belgian buns next time at Sandown?
Alright I’ll bring some and also a dish of gingerbread men, lots of gingerbread men
There are excellent bakers around in the UK Tim. Brushford and Dulverton has a bakery with a wide range of home made breads, pies and cakes and all can be enjoyed with a fresh brew on the premises, Also here in Thurso there are bakeries which I have yet to sample,
You’re absolutely correct, David. I should have been more precise. If you are fortunate to have a local baker then you are lucky. Much of the country is served by supermarkets. In Weybridge, a whole generation was raised on supermarket bread and don’t know what it’s like to walk into a German or French or Danish or Polish or indeed any European baker and buy real bread, made on the premises. So they think Waitrose bread is great, what’s wrong with it?
Having driven out shops in towns by forming car park,s out of town supermarkets then flourished, leaving towns high streets full of charity shops and estate agents. These out of town supermarkets with free parking and in store butchers, bakers and candles from China are now closing the in store butchers and bakers so we are all back to wonderloaf and mothers pride. Where is the CAMRA for bread and cakes and fruit and veg!!!
I agree with you Tim, bakers in Europe are breathtaking. Long may they continue.
Absolutely 100% agree with you. Convert all access roads to out of town supermarkets into toll roads. Level up!
Hi Tim
Shame to end up where you started , still the bakers look good! I’m messaging on behalf of Dave and myself as he say he can’t post a comment!
Have fun and where next?
Cath
Oh say hello to Dave from me. Schengen tomorrow, the end of this pilgrimage. I’ll have one leg in Germany, one in France and one in Luxembourg. The plan is to continue in Bavaria later, legs permitting
Kia ora, Tim, What kind of architecture is the Abbey of Matthias? It’s lovely. Was the poor horse trying to wear a beanie in preparation for a ram raid?! Gorgeous walking you lucky thing. Have a great last day. I’ll miss your blogs and comments on food as well as the animal pictures, thanks. Kia kaha.
St Matthias Abbey is a Romanesque basilica and Benedictine monastery. I know very little about horses except how they should be ridden around Sandown Park but my guess is that the beanie was some kind of mosquito net to keep the flies off the poor creature. Thanks for your comments and hopefully more from Germany later this summer
We wait for your to eat the french croissant and pastries, near the village there are still someone, but for how many time ? I m agree with you the super market is a disastet for the artisans and local économy. Thanks for your photos and comments Tim bravo. De
Your French bakers are so good. I love seeing the people walking to the boulangerie for their daily baguette. And the croissants are the best in the world. Long may they last!