2024

Day 17 – Schengen

Merzkirchen to Schengen, 20Km

It was past 10 o’clock when I finally slapped on my suncream in dusty Merzkirchen this morning and started my final day’s walk. The Trier taxi driver had never been there before and needed a street name for his satnav. We settled on Kirchenstraße.

It was a scorcher of a day, 29 degrees when I started, “RealFeel 32”. I walked on an exposed plateau covered in wheat fields with a scattering of windmills but no sign of human life. The windmills stood still, waiting for a breeze that never came.

After what felt like 50Km I reached Borg and fell into the cool church. The pilgrim stamp was impressive and the visitors book was signed by the same few wandering souls who had signed another book a few days ago.

And then there were vineyards and I descended into the Moselle Valley. I bid goodbye to Germany, looked over at France and walked across the bridge into Luxembourg and the nondescript village of Schengen.

My original plan of some months ago was to visit the Europe Museum and become an expert on the history of the European Union. I would be able to press No 8 on my audioguide and hear DeGaulle’s “Non!” to the UK’s original bid for membership. And who could ever forget the grim face of John Major who finally got the Maastricht Treaty through the UK Parliament despite all his rebel MPs outnumbering his wafer thin majority? It’s funny, I bumped into him in the cinema the other day. Sadly the museum has now closed for a year long renovation. However, you can see where the Schengen Agreement was signed in 1985 removing internal border controls and enabling freedom of movement between the countries in the Schengen Zone for 400 million people. Life in Schengen, with its two little cafes, goes on, seemingly oblivious to all that.

So that’s it for now. I plan to return to Germany after the summer to walk south from Nuremberg. Thanks for following and for all your comments so far. They keep me going

The church of St Martin in Merzkirchen disappearing below the horizon
Today’s lonely landscape
29 degrees heat and the windmills are still
It says “Run for your life”
Tourists in front of the Europe Museum
This buoy marks the tripoint between Germany, France and Luxembourg

32 comments on “Day 17 – Schengen

  1. a6bi2i

    I’ve enjoyed this as always, Tim. Thank you for sharing your travels.

  2. I have enjoyed following along and look forward to the next phase of your walk through Germany.
    Jane

  3. Well done. Now you just have to get home ‘Crowdstrike are deeply sorry for the cancellations and delays due to their computer bug’. It was hot here as well.

  4. vixwillb0beb78dca

    Kia ora, Tim. Thanks for the daily entertainment. What an underwhelming marker for the tripoint. Presumably it has the individual flags of the three nations on the facets. Looking forward to reading about your future peregrinations. Kia kaha.

    • Underwhelming is an understatement! I guess you’re a bit restricted in the middle of a major river. It has the three flags but this is not a part of the world that is low on flags

  5. Actually the sign says the patisserie is on the other trail, but I guess you’ve had your fill of croissants and are looking forward to eggs and bacon once again. Until next time…

    • You’re probably right about that patisserie. Do you really eat bacon and eggs for breakfast?

  6. cathgriffith

    Yes we’ve throughly enjoyed it too ! Look forward to the next update when you’ve recovered ! Hope you’re not caught out by the travel IT meltdown on your way home .

    Cath and Dave

    • Having worked in tech all my life I can see how easy it is to bring the whole world to a standstill. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if we lost the whole internet? I’d be back in the 1970s travelling Europe with Cook’s Continental Timetable

      • Ugh! Although nice to disconnect completely during these walks there are just too many unintended consequences. For example, none of us would be able to follow your lovely journeys! ❤

        Safe travels home. I look forward to the next one.

      • Thanks DJ, much appreciated

  7. Walkmag

    Thanks for sharing. Safe travels.

  8. Well done on another great pilgrimage Tim. Some lovely photo’s of beautiful scenery and churches and interesting facts. Looking forward to following along on the next one. Dawny xx

    • Hello Dawn, there’s always something interesting everywhere. Thanks for following

  9. As usual, it was an awesome read! I’m looking forward to following your next adventure!

  10. 2saunter

    Tim. As always , a very enjoyable blog. I’m always hopeful that you’ll turn into Forrest Gump and just keep walking and blogging continuosly. I’m looking forward to your posts going south from Nuremberg. Cheers, Andrew

    • Thanks Andrew. Just imagine becoming one of those old Indian men who leave home to wander indefinitely

  11. Another enjoyable daily read and very well written as always. Look forward to the next stage to Nuremberg.

  12. Tassie Kaz

    Always thankful for your safe arrival Tim. Another journey & box tick; completo. ✅️

    As others have stated & I concur, we love going along with you & appreciate your sharing, wit, writing style & photographic skills!

    Would I be right in saying this walk didn’t capture or impact you as much as others have done?

    Happy future trails & seamless trip home. 🤗

    • My best memories are of my fellow pilgrims so it’s disappointing not to have met anyone. This pilgrimage was planned to continue in Nuremberg but I had to change my plans and will do the two walks separately. I knew few people walk Cologne to Schengen but I’m only half way so it’s too soon to judge. Hopefully I’ll be back in Germany soon!

  13. Judith Perry

    Thanks. It has been great travelling with you,

  14. Philippa T

    Tim I hope that you’ve made it home OK given the recent travel disruptions. As always I’ve very much enjoyed following your walk. Despite the scarcity of other pilgrims you find so much of interest along the way!

    • Hi Philippa, thanks I’m just spending a few days in Luxembourg so I’ve missed the meltdown. I didn’t expect to meet anyone on this walk but it’s only the first half so hopefully when I walk from Nuremberg I’ll meet some fellow pilgrims

  15. Rachel Birks

    Rather late following the blog postings Tim but will enjoy catching up!!

    Well done, again, for such interesting accounts, photos and observations of your journey–look forward to the next leg at the end of the summer (if there is still such a thing in England!)

    • Hi Rachel, not too many posts this time, it seemed to fly by. Hopefully Germany is not going to sizzle for too long

  16. dunnenick6464a14d96

    Hi Tim,

    Just caught up with all your posts – very enjoyable and I’ve learnt something about a country I have not visited since 1975. Thinking ahead, could you do a piece on Shengen for next year’s Pilgrims to Rome magazine? It was fascinating to see it as a real place as opposed to the abstract concept so often referred to as a problem for long distance pilgrims trying to get to Rome before their visa expires. Your photos are great too!

    • Hi Nick, I’d be happy to write something about that sleepy little town that gave its name to the historic zone of countries without internal border controls but with increasingly tight external borders for us slow travellers

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