2024

Day 32 – Bavarian Alps Ahead

Bad Wörishofen to Markt Rettenbach, 25Km

I didn’t fancy standing in the Kloster’s Kneipp pool while taking breakfast this morning so I slipped out to the nearby bakery instead. The abbey was a great place to sleep, good value at 60 euros and they offered a range of Kneipp treatments, massages etc.. I like staying in a monastery for the atmosphere.

Today’s walk was most pleasant. I’m now in the foothills of the Bavarian Alps that lie between me and my destination on Lake Constance. The endless fields of maize are being replaced by their principal customers, grazing on the rolling hills (but behind electric fences).

Just like yesterday, the weather was kind. Rain was forecast and the sky darkened horribly. As I approached Markt Rettenbach, the first heavy drops of rain fell and I hurried the last few metres to the church, as the heavens opened. When it was safe, I crossed the road to the bakery for a cup of tea.

I’m staying in pilgrim accommodation tonight. A lovely couple offer a room to pilgrims for 26 euros. There are no hotels anywhere nearby so it is particularly valuable. I checked the visitor book. A couple stayed here last night plus two or three pilgrims last month but that’s it. There’s no food and the only restaurant in town reopens tonight after a two week holiday. And the bakery opens for breakfast at 5:30 so all is well.

But is there a cloud on the horizon? Unfortunately yes. Lots of clouds. Heavy rain is forecast and temperatures, which are normally in the high teens, will fall to a maximum of 8 degrees in the Bavarian Alps for the next few days before returning to normal. This will need careful consideration.

Crucifix, cow: typical Jakobsweg scenery
Old fashioned road sign
A cow
Approaching Dirlewang
Mussenhausen Kloster
Will the rain hold off?
Bavarian Foothills
It’s definitely going to rain

20 comments on “Day 32 – Bavarian Alps Ahead

  1. The change in weather conditions you will experience over the next few days is similar to that in the UK. Not sure what weather app you use but I can highly recommend “Ventusky” – I used it during my pilgrimage to Jerusalem and continue to use it today – very detailed and very reliable.

    • Many thanks David, I’ll get it. It’s worth having a couple of opinions. I use AccuWeather. The weather changes so quickly in the mountains (even though the altitude is only 1100m). My problem is my clothing which is summer hiking. Even with good clothing you can get very chilled in heavy rain, especially if it’s windy

      • Take a break – summer clothing in the mountains – not worth the risk with the projected forecast!

      • I know. I have a very lightweight down but you lose temperature so quickly when you’re wet. It’s the heavy rain I’m worried about. Unless the forecast changes, the choice will be to wait until the weather improves or return next summer.

      • The Bavarian Alps will still be there waiting for you next summer!

  2. Hi Tim,

    Your journey seems a bit on the lonely side. Few fellow pilgrims along the way.
    Hope you are still able to find peace and enjoyment in the daily walking!
    Jane

    • Hi Jane, I’m getting used to the loneliness. I don’t like it but I’m enjoying walking in Germany. I will try to find a more popular walk next time. Tim

  3. You need your lucky red coat!

    • My lucky red coat! I was thinking about it today. Would be perfect

  4. Maybe you can catch up with the couple in front of you if they are held up by the forthcoming blizzard.

  5. vixwillb0beb78dca

    Kia Ora, Tim, I’m sorry to read that you are having a tough time with this walk. Yes, be very circumspect about walking in the Alps with that sort of forecast. The weather gods don’t always follow the forecast but if it is alpine walking then believe the worst. The cow in the foreground looks unwell with a hunched back and dirty rump so I hope it survives! You need to follow your instincts and survive too. Kia kaha.

    • Respect the weather in the mountains! I don’t think these Bavarian Alps are anywhere near the scale of their cousins to the south but you need to know what you’re doing (which I don’t)

  6. Walkmag

    take a rest day travelling to shops for warmer jacket

  7. Tassie Kaz

    The forecast weather event for Europe is even making news down here so it must be a biggie…being dubbed as an ‘Arctic blast’. 😲🥶

    Very glad you have flexibility with your time so you can make adjustments along the way to allow for whatever comes up… & still be able to reach your goal. 🤗

    • It’s been on the forecast for the past week but it’s most unusual for September

  8. I love reading your posts. Brings back all the beloved memories from walking the Camino Francés ….

    • Dear Noémi, thanks for your lovely comment. The Camino Frances is such a beautiful experience and I feel my life is enriched forever. Do join me again in summer 2025 when I plan to be in Scandinavia. Tim

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