Stiefenhofen to Scheidegg, 18Km
Last night I read about five year old Gabriele Schwarz, whose memorial plaque is now attached to the back of the Stiefenhofen church. A book was written, a film was made and the plaque was created in 2009. But some locals didn’t want to be reminded of their terrible betrayal and so the church refused it until 2019 when, presumably the last of those involved were dead.
I set off this morning in a steady, soaking drizzle and never looked back at Stiefenhofen.
Today is one of those grim days where the rain never stops, clouds hang over the hills and the temperature sticks at 7 degrees. Jakobsweg followed the road with occasional forays into the pastures. I put my camera away, zipped up my jacket and walked on until I reached Weiler-Simmerberg. The church was open so I stamped my credential then sat dripping on one of the benches. I looked at my Gore-Tex shoes, felt my soaking wet feet and wondered whether it was worth paying extra for waterproofing which never works. I went into a cafe where a group of men were already drinking large bottles of beer. I drank half a cup of coffee and left.
My plan was to stay in the pilgrim hostel in Scheidegg. I think I found it but it wasn’t bursting with life like the albergues in Spain. There was no one about, no sign, not even a Camino shell. I retreated to the town centre and took a room for the night, with a radiator to dry my shoes. I considered continuing to Lindau where Jakobsweg ends on Lake Constance but I didn’t feel in the mood for it today. I’ll get there tomorrow which is fine but I’m not singing, “Tomorrow belongs to me”.
Pilgrimage 
Such a penitential pilgrimage!
It is but why??
Still looks so beautiful- even in the rain.
Sort of. Are you planning a walk in Europe this year? I seem to remember you had something planned
Just got home from 9 days hiking the Alta Via 1 in the Dolomites ( gorgeous scenery, perfect weather but very challenging hiking) followed by a much needed week of R &R in Rovinj, Croatia.
I remember! Spectacular part of the world and I’m glad the weather was kind. All sorts of problems with the weather now
Oh Tim…you seem as miserable as the weather!
As always admire your candour that despite the scenery, long distance walking isn’t all beer & skittles (although at least you’ve found the beer🍺).
Hope you’re able to find the sun in your cloudy days soon. 🌞
It was sunny yesterday
🤣
Apparently you can get waterproof socks now.
How far still to go?
I’ve seen these waterproof socks which may be good in wet weather. Nothing worse than wet socks. Two more walking days…
Kia ora, Tim, In each of your postings I look at all those buildings and to me they look as though they are trying to burrow into the earth and get out of sight. They are meek and submissive, not loud and proud – perhaps a reflection of the local psyche! You’re certainly having a soggy stroll but I’m not surprised considering the news we are seeing of the devastating floods in countries a few mountain ranges away from Bavaria. Perhaps you should make martinis your drink of choice – “Let’s get out of these wet clothes and into a dry martinini” – from 1937 film ‘Every Day’s a Holiday’. It was mantra on wet walking days (I love walking in the rain) though I preferred a Laphroaig. Kia kaha.
I’m getting a persistent drizzle which is the very edge of the weather system afflicting Central Europe. I’ve also had very good weather for both these walks until the last few days so I’m not complaining except for moaning about getting wet. I don’t think I’ve ever had a martini but getting out of wet clothes is my favourite
The weather has been quite against you, and the Covid, and yet…..you are battling on! Well done.
I am hoping for better weather than that in Italy next month. But cannot rely on it now. Dreadful flooding north of you in Europe.
The last few days has been unusual weather for mid September but I was lucky before so I’m not complaining! I hope it’s good for you in Italy. It’s a more sensible month than August which you know all about
My dad was a Bevin Boy during the second world war.
Having signed up with his best mate at 18 and, passing up university he was sent down the pit because his number ended in 1 or 0.
Just as well for me because his best mate died in action in Italy.
My dad was never recognized for doing his bit. He wasn’t invited to any commemoration ceremonies wasn’t invited to join the British Legion. Wasn’t given a medal, wasn’t released from the pit until 1946, wasn’t given a scholarship to attend university as the members of the armed forces were. He was very hurt by that lack of recognition.
After he had died in his mid 80s from lung degeneration potentially brought about by the long term effects of breathing in coal dust his service was finally recognized, as was the service of all Bevin Boys.
I applied for his medal and, what arrived was something that you may have got when you collected 50 tops from typhoo tea. A shameful plastic medal in a plastic box.
Sometimes it takes a long time to recognise those who gave by those who wrote history in a soft cuddly Hollywood PR way. There are the unfortunates who never fitted the story, polish pilots spring to mind as one such group, my dad was another. Clearly the young girl also that you write about is another. Are they any less worthy than those we promote to be our hero’s when we write our history and commemorate the few.
On the 79th year after the D day landings I decided to cycle around Normandy with my son. I attended the British D Day memorial ceremony (the monument was substantially funded by the people who fought and not by the Government). As I entered i was told to park my bike out of sight and those arriving by car were ushered close to the front. I walked in to a throng of the entitled. My solace was Harrys bench (https://www.britishnormandymemorial.org/news-story/remembering-harry-billinge-one-year-on/) far enough away from those climbing on the backs of the dead but close enough to hear. I shrugged, at 64 I know how the world works.
Thank you for bringing the inconvenient truth of Gabriele Schwarz to my attention and saying her name so we might remeber.
I feel better for getting that off my chest 🙂 keep bringing us your everyday journey i always look forward to it.
Hi Clive, thank you for all the information about your dad. He and the rest of the Bevin Boys must have felt badly let down by the Government. We are the lucky generation in so many ways. I watched the film of Harry’s bench which I’d seen before. What a privilege it would have been to buy the man a pint. Everyone should visit the Normandy beaches to understand what happened and to see the scale of the devastation. Everyone should visit at least one concentration camp to learn about the terrible treatment of human beings; of those who were enslaved and of those who were murdered. The story of Gabriele Schwarz moved me to the core. I woke up at 4:15 and couldn’t sleep for thinking of her, how she played on the hills around Stiefenhofen, oblivious to her fate being sealed by her foster parents who handed her over to the care of the SS, no doubt with a packed lunch, for the 6 day journey crammed in a goods wagon with strangers, to Auschwitz.
The song, “Tomorrow belongs to me” was written as a fake Nazi anthem for the 1972 film, Cabaret. It’s sung by a Nazi youth league boy and it’s as chilling a moment as you’ll experience in the cinema. The song was actually written by a couple of New York Jews. The film is one of my favourites and is based on the novel “Goodbye to Berlin” by Christopher Isherwood and the musical of the same name. The film is hard to find nowadays. I saw it at the BFI recently but it’s not streaming nor was there a 50th anniversary reissue.
Thank you as ever for your comments which I always look forward to reading. Tim