Puttgarden to Fehmarn, 16Km
Despite the forecast, today was a dry day. The clouds looked thunderous but if it rained, it didn’t rain on me. Nonetheless I quickly checked out of the Hotel Dania before the weather changed its mind and walked to the beach where the Via Scandinavica has its official end (or, for me, starting point). Here I found an imposing statue of a pilgrim monk looking across the Baltic Sea to Scandinavia. Even before pilgrims, this route has been a major bird migration route and every spring and autumn the skies above Puttgarden are full of flocks of cranes, starlings etc migrating between Scandinavia and Western Europe.
After a while, I passed the tunnel works which will replace the ferries in 2029. In addition to road traffic, there will be a high speed railway. It’s an immersed tunnel which means rather than boring under the sea, which is quite expensive, they are dredging a trench and dropping ready made concrete tunnel sections into it. Surprisingly there will be no cycle path and pilgrims will probably travel by bus because the high speed trains are unlikely to stop in Puttgarden.
I didn’t linger on the path after that. There’s only so much you can do, taking photographs of fields of barley and roadside weeds.
It was a short walk to Fehmarn which is also the name of the island that I’m on. The Via Scandinavica aka Jakobsweg passes in front of the St Nicholas church but there was no pilgrim stamp for my almost empty credential. Nor was there a Scandic welcome with bright clean lines and impressive model sailing ships. Instead there was much to focus the mind and force you onto your knees to pray for redemption, from the ancient black hearse in its own chapel to the unrepentant artwork depicting good and evil, heaven and hell and the stern portraits of previous pastors. Welcome back to Germany.
Pilgrimage 
Apart from the cheese, it all looks a bit bleak Tim. Really enjoying the blog, Jane & Julian
Wonderfully bleak! That photo of my hotel was this morning. I was expecting another soaking. I hope the sun returns before I reach the seaside later this week
The wooden monk clearly reached a split decision between the Via Scandinavica and the Jakobsweg. Or maybe the St Nicholas’ congregation were triggered by the artwork.
I’m with the congregation every time. Inspiring!
Hi Tim enjoying the blog it looks excellent cycling country… which means nice and flat 😁 as usual loving all the references to food. Janet
Hi Janet, perfect cycling country! Flat, good tarmac, straight and dedicated cycle ways. No wonder they don’t wear helmets
Kia Ora, Tim. I’m fascinated by the leggings/tights worn by those administering punishments – mixed colours and patterns that any modern gym bunny would wear proudly! Any idea who those people represent in terms of christianity? Is the architecture of the hotel typical? It looks grim. No wonder even the weeds catch your attention they have some colour. Kia kaha, Vicky
I agree! It’s an old Germanic Lululemon workout. The hotel photo is atmospheric but I doubt it looks any better in the sunshine
So all the ferries will go once the tunnel is complete? Not even a token crossing or a choice of under or over?
The hotel may look a bit Soviet-style but as walkers, they’re always a beacon. And for you dear Tim, a port in a storm…literally! 🤗
A most welcome hot shower in that hotel plus a sea view too. 5 stars
PS. Were the eels still wriggling…? 😳
That would have been disgusting!
Ha! very nice contraption for keeping the slices of cheese fresh 🙂 Hard pass on the eels ! The tunnel will be fantastic for them.
Perfect cheese slicer in every way. I’m not fond of eels but they make a great display