Day 11 – These boots are made for walking

Güemes to Santa Cruz de Bezana, 28Km

I hope they are. I went shopping in Decathlon, Santander this afternoon and bought a great new pair of walking trousers to replace the ones I ripped in that fall and a pair of Merrell walking shoes. I lost all confidence in my old shoes so Decathlon kindly recycled them. I walked out in the new Merrell shoes and they feel good so far.

Yesterday evening was underwhelming. At 7:30pm we were led into a room where the Fr Ernestio Bustio, who founded the albergue, spoke for 90 minutes, not about his work around the world but about his grandparents, languages, love etc. It was all in Spanish of course. Someone volunteered to translate but it became increasingly difficult for her to understand and convey any meaning from the rambling words. Meanwhile the pilgrims were tired and starving. Dinner was served at 9pm and consisted of chicken noodle soup followed by pasta in a sugary tomato sauce. There was plenty of food but not the kind you’d want to eat just before bed.

I slept so badly that my Apple Watch gave me the lowest possible sleep score and bluntly told me to get to bed early tonight.

This morning featured another fine cliff top walk. The weather cheered up and I walked with a small group of survivors to the ferry for the short crossing into Santander. Never miss the opportunity to eat lunch in Spain. I had a fabulous tuna salad and a sandwich which featured a French omelette and more salad. After that, I booked myself into the Hotel Camargo and set off shopping.

It’s now evening and naturally there’s nothing to eat but I’ve washed myself and my clothes and I’m sitting in La Isla with a large beer and a hot slice of tortilla. Santander is a sprawling unattractive city. I’ve walked through it. But this bar is a little gem, right next to the hotel. It looks like it did in the 1970s, there are no tourists and no one speaks a word of English. If it wasn’t for that wretched watch I stay here all night.