Day 19 – The Day of the Locust

Villaviciosa to Gijón, 29Km

Texas Bill mentioned a bakery which opened at 7am but a quick check on Google Maps showed a cafe just 100m along the Camino from the hotel. It also opened at 7am so I went there instead. I ordered a coffee and croissant. The croissant came with a knife and fork and would have fed a dozen hungry pilgrims. I ate some for breakfast, some for lunch and threw the rest away.

Today’s walk was always going to be a bit of a slog. 29Km including two hills, the first of which rose to a dizzying 437m. The total ascent today was 802m apparently. The scenery was rather ordinary green fields and cows, trees etc. I walked with Francois, a man from the French Alps who complained bitterly, and without any provocation from me, about the state of Spanish croissants. “Why do they cover them with sugar and fill them with syrup? They should be as light as the air with a slight crunch” he said. I also walked with an Australian lady and her grown up son and then I met Kim from Toronto who started quite early this morning. So with all the walking companions I didn’t take many photos.

I arrived in Gijón in time for lunch and found a lovely old Spanish restaurant. It was busy with people eating the awful Asturian beans but I found a discreet table in the corner and ordered a mixed salad. The waiter refused and only offered the lunchtime menu. Salad? Meat or fish? “Fish” I replied. The salad was a mess of olives and peppers which I dislike and I picked at it like a five year old. Next came a plate of deep fried sardines which received the same treatment. The waiter returned. “Cake or ice cream?” I asked if I could have some bread or potatoes but he repeated his question so I said cake and he produced something only fit for a five year old. I paid and went over the road to a supermarket looking for something edible but found nothing and left empty handed. I’m here for two nights so if I can stay awake I might try again at 8:30pm when the hotel restaurant opens.