Day 24 – Norte people

Santa Marina to Luarca, 27Km

After the storm yesterday the temperature dropped and I dug out my emergency down jacket. The pension felt like the hotel in The Shining. Freezing! I withdrew to the bar over the road to warm up and met Brendan from Ireland who has just arrived to walk a few days. We had an engaging evening despite few of our beliefs coinciding. Nonetheless we tried walking today but not for long. The Camino del Norte is the toughest Camino, all hills. Brendan goes uphill slowly but flies downhill. I’m the opposite. We’d never have got anywhere. And then I met Joyce who matched my pace and we shared a lot of things like preferring the top bunk in the albergue. So we walked together and the kilometres flew by.

This Camino del Norte certainly is tough. It’s all steep hills and it seems to attract more hikers than traditional pilgrims. Many people are only walking a section for a few days. It’s a very different experience to the Camino Frances. People on the Norte typically dislike the Camino Frances because of the “crowds” but for me, that is the attraction of it. I also like walking along roads, especially in cities or heavy industrial zones so I’m really an odd one, even before we talk about bunk beds.

We stopped at the only bar that is open on a Monday for an early sandwich. There were two motorcycles parked outside. I didn’t notice the make because my eyes were drawn to the UK registration plates. We chatted to the owners who were touring parts of the Camino. I jokingly asked if they were going to Santiago this afternoon and they said they were. When you’re walking you completely lose track of time and speed. Santiago is almost two weeks away for me but that couple will turn the key and be there in a few hours. I asked if they had a spare helmet.