Vilalba to A Pobra de Parga, 27Km
I’ve passed the 100Km milestone to Santiago de Compostela and that means we have some new arrivals on the Camino who will qualify for the Compostela if they walk the remaining distance. I could see them pouring out of the Parador this morning, maybe a dozen or more.
Today’s walk was a fairly typical one. Cows and farm houses with sizeable vegetable plots and barking dogs, safely behind the gate. At first there were patches of rain but later the sun came out and for the first time I felt some warmth. The season is finally changing and a mini heatwave is due next week.
The Camino del Norte isn’t new. It was favoured by pilgrims trying to escape the Islamic encroachment but fell out of favour after the Reconquista when they returned to the main Camino Frances. It was only in the latter years of the 20th century that the Norte was revived as an alternative to the Camino Frances. However, the authorities are constantly fiddling with the route, suggesting diversions or simply changing it. That’s a big problem if you own an albergue and the route suddenly bypasses your premises. It’s been an irritation so far, trying to decide which option to take but today there is a big decision. The Camino has been moved from its traditional route through Miraz where there is a British run albergue to a more direct route across the mountains, saving 8Km which amounts to a whole day. After some protests, the Miraz route has been classified as an optional route. I couldn’t decide whether to pay my respects to the Brits or take to the mountains but the mountains won. I’m on the new official route but I’ve sponsored the British albergue for a week to compensate.
I’m now in the Alojamiento albergue, ready to cross the wilderness tomorrow. We have a communal meal at 7:30pm which is always a pleasure. My destination tomorrow is the Sobrado monastery, considered to be one of the spiritual highlights of the Camino del Norte. Lord knows there are very few of them.









The mountains sounds like a more difficult option. Any visions of St.James to guide you? How many km have you done to get to the 100k milestone?
It’s 783Km total from home. I’m not sure what this route is like but I doubt there are mountains ahead. It’s quite high but I’ll find out tomorrow
I don’t understand this malarkey for easy scroll collecting the idea you do a 100k seems to be cheating yourself, a bit like going to the Louvre and only seeing the Mona Lisa
Have you really done it or are you pretending so you can tell somebody at a party.
Seems a bit too much like instant gratification
Not getting the impression this route is motivating you
It feels like hardworking with little reward
That maybe me but it dosent have the rolling story like Japan or the German walks
Maybe just me
Hi Clive, very good to hear from you. I didn’t bother to photograph the milestone. It’s a pointless thing, some sort of religious requirement. As for the route, it’s certainly hard work but I don’t mind that. The disappointment is that it’s soulless. There’s no Camino spirit. It’s just a hike. Everyone I meet says how terrible the Camino Frances is because of overcrowding but that is the fun of it. Most people here prefer to walk alone and do their own thing. I’m looking forward to having a couple of days on the Camino Frances from Wednesday. So it’s difficult to spin a story about the Norte unlike the previous walks, especially my walk up England in Covid times. I’ve enjoyed a lot of the Norte but it doesn’t feel special. Anyway I’m just about done with it. All the best