O Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela, 19Km
The final day of the Camino is a mixture of emotions ranging from sheer relief that it’s over to the joy of completion and everything in between and beyond. The following day is the hangover, the emptiness and the loss of Camino friends and the daily routine. You want to walk but there’s nowhere left to go.
I overslept yesterday morning and didn’t leave O Pedrouzo until after 8am but there was no danger of being left behind. The path was thick with pilgrims, many on the final day of their 100Km walk, day packs swinging from their clean shirts and the rest of the luggage entrusted to the courier. I had a room in a Pensión and had to squeeze through the entrance which was jammed with huge suitcases awaiting transportation. I don’t think baggage transfers were an option in 2016.
The Camino provides. I placed my faith on the Camino for breakfast and it was soon amply repaid with fresh orange juice, croissant and coffee. What luxury these Frances people enjoy.
The ubiquitous yellow arrows led me through the last of the eucalyptus trees and eventually into Santiago’s Plaza del Obradoiro, the main square in front of the Cathedral. The clock struck 12:00 as I arrived. You can’t help taking a little gulp as you stand there among the crowds of happy pilgrims celebrating their Camino. I walked every step of the way and now the long walk from my home is over.
Sanne came to meet me. We walked together for the first couple of days in Spain before she raced ahead. It was so nice to be met at the finish and by someone who was there at the beginning. We had a celebration drink and then I had a bath and watched with interest as little bits of debris floated to the surface.
I collected my Compostela from the pilgrim office. I don’t know why I bothered because the Camino is more than a piece of paper at the end but it only took 10 minutes. All very efficient and sustainable, assuming the paper is from the eucalyptus trees.
Next I went to see the Pórtico de la Gloria, the magnificent Romanesque portal carved in 1188. It’s one of the greatest works of medieval sculpture in Europe. Until a few years ago pilgrims entered the cathedral through the main entrance and passed through the Portico, touching the Tree of Jesse on one of the marble columns. It’s an experience no one ever forgot. The whole thing has now been restored and there is a hefty admission charge to see it. I paid up and got a slot at 5:30pm. What they’ve done is a travesty. The whole point of the Pórtico is for pilgrims to pass through it as they enter the cathedral. Nowadays everyone enters through a side door and the Pórtico is fenced off. None of the pilgrims even know it’s there. They need to reopen the front doors so pilgrims can once again experience the Pórtico as it was intended.
In the evening I had a quick beer with a few of the Norte people and then went back to my hotel to search all my stuff for bed bugs. None found, surprisingly as I have quite a few bites.
It has been my intention for awhile to return to Santiago on this, the 10th anniversary of my first Camino, but this time following the Norte rather than the Frances. I also decided that it would be my last pilgrimage walk. What a treasure trove of memories I’ve accumulated over these past ten years across Europe and in Japan. And what wonderful people I’ve had the pleasure of meeting along the way. It’s been a privilege to undertake these walks and I’m immensely grateful to have the health and resources to do them.
These blogs have always been a bit of fun and not to be taken too seriously. So a big thank you to everyone who’s followed them. I deeply appreciate all your comments and to those who were unable to penetrate the WordPress comment system, I know you’re with me. Buen Camino from Santiago de Compostela.
Pilgrims are singing, their journey done” (Pet Shop Boys)
Pórtico de la Gloria without paying and nobody can walk through it into the cathedral anymore. Bleeding the assets
Pilgrimage 
Well done you made it OK. Have you chosen a route home?
Hi Roger, yes I took the train to Madrid. I’m here until Monday. Sandown on Thursday
Tim.
Thank you for all the entertaining and informative blog posts over the years. You are an inspiration.
I followed you on this one (I guess I was lurking!) as I walked the via Tolosana backwards from Pamplona to Arles – no issue with crowds in front of the Arles Cathedral – and then the first 200 km of the via Aurelia towards Rome. I hope to complete the Santiago – Rome link next year.
All the best for whatever comes next for you, although I wouldn’t be surprised to see a blog post from you in my inbox on another of your adventures.
Take care. Andrew
Thanks Andrew. Sounds like a wonderful journey to Rome. It’s my intention not to do anymore multi week solo walks but who can predict the future? Good luck to you on your continuing adventures
“You want to walk but there’s nowhere left to go.” You could have walked on to Finisterre?
Well done on your ten consecutive annual pilgrimages, Tim – quite an achievement. We met by chance on one of those pilgrimages and I have enjoyed following your blog ever since. I think my favourite will always be your journey that took you the length of the UK mainland and across the Pentland Firth to the Orkney Islands ending in Kirkwall. Undertaken during those covid years and probably the most arduous of all your walks?
I thought someone would suggest Finisterre and I thought it would be you. Perhaps I should have gone, at least on the bus but for me the Camino always finishes at Santiago. I’m a city boy at heart and I’m excited to see Madrid. Last time I was here, Franco had just died.
I will treasure all my walks for different reasons but those two in lockdown were extra special for me. All sorts of challenges overcome and Orkney remains extra extra special.
It was amazing meeting you on your major walk to Jerusalem and I’ve so much enjoyed reading your books about it (David Jury – available on Amazon)
The last and only time I was in Madrid, in 1995, I was robbed and ended up chasing two pick pockets through the back streets of the city. So be aware!
Thanks for the warning. Wouldn’t have happened in 1976
“The sorry relief of arrival” Gideon Lewis-Kraus
Think I’ve used this quote at your journey’s end previously Tim, but as you’re hanging up your hiking pole, it’s more relevant than ever.
You know when you’re done with these undertakings, for whatever reason. I reached that point, now you have, but I will never regret a single step & neither will you.
Well done Tim. We’re thankful for your safe arrival again. Relax & enjoy now…& let’s see if those legs (& mind) get restless… 🤗 🫂
Thank you Karen and it’s been a fantastic time. I’m not exactly hanging up my pole, I’m just not going to do another big multi week solo walk. Thanks for all your support over the years. Tim x
Again, Happy 10th Anniversary! Thank you for sharing your many pilgrim adventures over the years. RIchard, Deirdre, Jane & I are planning to walk 2 stages of the Le Puy next September. We’ll be thinking of you.
Buen Camino
I’ll be thinking of you all too. Le Puy is such a beautiful walk, one of my happiest. I met you all near the start of my Camino and we certainly had a lot of fun along the way
Congratulations Tim, what a journey! As always I’ve enjoyed your blogs which have been a respite from the dark cold autumnal days here in the southern hemisphere. I hope you will continue to walk and write, even if not about longer pilgrimages. I’ve not found that the wish to walk goes away! …. so thanks and enjoy your stay in Madrid.
Hi Philippa, thank you for your prolific commenting over the years which has helped me struggle on through all the challenges of long distance walking. I’m happy to brighten up your autumns and winters. I’ll certainly continue walking but probably not these solo long distance affairs. I can’t predict the future but it feels about time to call it a day. All the best, Tim
Brilliant Tim.Enjoy the good weather! Hope to meet up later this summer. I’m back mid June.
The change in the weather is amazing. I’ve stepped from cool wet Camino to a heatwave in Madrid. So glad not to be walking in this 33 degrees. I look forward to seeing you at the RAH
Well done Tim
You have closed the circle
my first reading of your pedestrian adventures were the via francegina with your friend.
I was intrigued about the footsteps you took and felt very much part of your arrival in Rome.
Covid followed and I walked with you through those times from my home in Hong Kong.
Japan was another highlight with you becoming familiar with that culture and their 7 elevens.
The walks through Europe with pictures of cows and churches and now the end.
However, you have inspired me sufficiently to buy the book start the spreadsheet decide who i will do the journey for and start collecting the gear. Next year I will follow your footsteps to Rome, probably from St Bernards.
Good luck Tim you have done many things and brought much enjoyment to me and for that I thank you.
Hi Clive, thanks for the kind words and I’ve always enjoyed reading your comments over the years. Every walk has been special for me and I couldn’t name a favourite, I really couldn’t. Japan was a particularly beautiful experience and my Covid walks in England and Scotland greatly exceeded my expectations and captured something of those strange times.
I wish you well on your forthcoming walks. The walk from GSB to Rome is popular and rewarding in so many ways. The Camino Frances is magnificent and perfect for getting hooked on walking. Feel free to contact me anytime. Best wishes, Tim
Kia Ora Tim, once again I have thoroughly enjoyed walking with you vicariously. Congratulations on achieving yet another challenging goal. I have laughed and empathised with you along the way. I do not believe you’ll lose the desire to find another trail to walk. Like Philippa, says the need never goes away. You have at least three of us Downunder following your journeys so how about trying one in the colonies!? I know that there are some beautiful trails in Australia and we have some wonderful walks in NZ -check out the Te Araroa Trail which is the most challenging of them. Next autumn/winter in NZ will not be the same because I won’t have your blogs to follow. Kia kaha and many thanks.
Thanks, Vicky and I’ve also enjoyed your many comments which have kept me going. Walking is so good for body and soul and I certainly won’t stop. We’re off on the Norfolk coast path soon. However I don’t intend to do anymore multi week solo walks. Perhaps I’ll change my mind, who knows? Thanks again for the many supportive comments, Tim
perhaps it s too late. I m reading today your last 2 days of pilgrimage.
you are very brave and I m sad if you stop yours walks😥 but I understand you 👏👏. Your adventure miss to me. Rest you and hope see you and Mandy one day.
Hello Huguette, thank you and it’s never too late for a comment. I do intend to stop doing these long solo walks although I do enjoy them. Mandy is keen to come walking with me and I hope we can make the pilgrimage to Mont St Michel, hopefully with you too. I watched the Senegal football match on Tuesday and all I can say is Vive la France 🇫🇷
Je note Tim , j avais regardé pour les hébergements il y a des possibilités 👍.