We are well and truly on the Meseta, a more or less flat plateau about 900m high, supporting fields of wheat and little else. The path is an old Roman road which knows nothing about boundaries. It runs straight and long. In summer it would be murderous but at the moment the weather is perfect, the occasional trees seem to be singing to each other and the verges are alive with wild flowers. I’ve been incredibly lucky with the weather with only a couple of really wet days. But I’ve been spoiled with the beauty of the Basque Country, Navarra and La Rioja. This landscape is challenging. Today’s walk was 27 Kms. After 26 Kms there was no sign of a village but as my phone counted down the metres, eventually some rooftops appeared and there was our destination: Calzadilla de la Cieza in a little dip. 28 Kms may not sound too bad but imagine doing it day after day with a back pack and the limited sleep that can be had in a large dormitory with snoring and no fresh air.
As we walked, the young couple from last night passed us on their horses, hair braided and clothes flowing in the wind.
We now have a choice of 3 tough days or 4 easier days to Leon. The latter is preferred.
Unsurprisingly, most of last night’s pilgrims are here and so a new set of faces have now become old friends. And the sun is slowly setting over the wheat fields and the little white Albergue with its “Completo” sign on the front door.