Day 18 – walking across Causses limestone from Cajarc to Limogne-en-Quercy

Another dreamy walk across the Causses today. These are hot sunny days, 32C for the moment. I had time to spare this morning because today was only a 19 Km walk so I sat looking at the River Lot. It was very peaceful.

After awhile I reached a lovely little cafe. It was actually more of a Camino exhibition in a hut with drinks and snacks, all run by a former pilgrim. I stopped for a green tea. In Spain you would take it for granted that a cafe would appear frequently but in France there is often nothing for the pilgrim between towns. After a few more kilometres in the woods I caught up with G from yesterday and I learnt the French name for poppy, coquelicot. They have suddenly appeared everywhere. We passed an old Citroen among the trees and nearby a woman was collecting mushrooms. G got an update on the local mushroom situation to compare to her own part of France.

It reminded me of the time I was poisoned by a toxic mushroom at a pretentious restaurant in England many years ago. While the French are experts at mushroom gathering, the British are ignorant. They pop up to Dartmoor with a guidebook and pick poisonous mushrooms to serve in their restaurants at crazy prices. Without going into details, I am always impressed by my first hand experience of how the body deals with a toxic mushroom.

I left G to have a nap under a tree and continued towards Limogne. Suddenly I heard an excited babble from up ahead and shouts of “Monsieur Tim”. It was some pilgrims from the happy Madame Frederique gite. My brain slowly engaged and sorted a few French words into a sequence that was comprehensible to these kind people. They were delighted, asked me where I was staying and, again, a few words offered an answer to their question. I suspect there might be a way to learn this language.


All quiet on the River Lot this morning

Unexpected pleasure: a pilgrim runs a little cafe in the middle of nowhere
Spot the pigeonnier

Fields full of poppies
The local produce is very popular

2 comments on “Day 18 – walking across Causses limestone from Cajarc to Limogne-en-Quercy

  1. Peter Mastenko

    Scenery looks delightful. How do you navigate? Is the route well sign-posted and easy to navigate? Do you ever take a wrong turn?

    • See Day 10. The route is the GR65 which is well way marked. There are 4 red and white signs meaning straight on, turn left or right. The 4th says “wrong way” which is placed after a junction on the wrong path. I also have all the French 1: 25000 maps on my iPhone to get a GPS fix on my position. And I have a guidebook with excellent maps.

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