Staying in Trefcon was a good move; a very good move indeed. We stayed in the beautiful gite of Mme & M. Wynands (main photo) and dined with them. It was a rare experience of joining in with the local people rather than eating in a restaurant. Out came a large bottle of beer and then a couple of bottles of local wine. We ate a cheese tarte, chicken, dessert and green tea. It was a memorable evening and I was able to keep an eye on the football scores using their WiFi.
I slept fitfully. I was too slow with the suncream yesterday and now I’m paying the price. It was one of those nights when you sleep quite lightly and the dreams are vivid.
Madame was up at 7.00 to serve us delicious fresh baguette and croissants with apricot jam. We were on our way by 07.45.
The walk to Tergnier was tedious and I took few photos. There was a supermarket where we bought lunch and a cafe in a camping ground where we drank coffee. We approached Tergnier along an insect laden canal but were diverted off it due to emergency gas works and walked the last hour through the waste land.
There is only one hotel in Tergnier, Le Paon, and Paul and I played a little game imagining it as we walked. The huge lobby, the team of receptionists, the bell boy, the bar … all for 45 Euro B&B for both of us. But it wasn’t quite that. We are the only guests. The toilet and shower and down the corridor. We sat in the empty restaurant; monsieur suggested chicken, we accepted his recommendation and moments later he returned with the piping hot dish fresh from the microwave. It was rather like British Airways.
There is only one option now, to fall asleep.
At this point, pilgrims coming from Northern Europe bound for Compostela turn right while the rest of us continue. But few pilgrims pass this bleak spot.
The walk along the Canal de St Quentin