2019

Day 30 – Phew! No typhoon for Shikoku

I was happy to depart from the dreadful Fujino-ya ryokan this morning. Somehow they charged me 8200 yen, the most I’ve paid so far. I couldn’t eat half the dinner and then I discovered my room had no insect screens and several mosquitoes kept me awake from 3.15. I killed one of them and it left a big red splotch. It must have been too heavy to get airborne.

The ryokan was built around a pleasant inside garden and I could hear the wind howling all night. I started walking at 6.30. There was a strong wind blowing and huge low thunderous clouds overhead. AccuWeather forecast a completely dry day, zero percent chance of rain for the next 3 days. It was right. Not one drop fell despite those clouds and the monstrous typhoon wreaking havoc on Tokyo. And the wind gradually died away. Yesterday I suffered one of the most humid days so far with the temperature touching 30 degrees; today it was fresh and there was finally a hint of autumn in the air.

So for me it was business as usual. 33Km to Uchiko. I was tempted to stop in Ozu which had several fine hotels and a hundred very tempting restaurants as well as all the shops you could imagine. But I continued to Uchiko and found a good hotel (the AZ) for 5200 yen including breakfast.

I’m planning another 40Km day tomorrow to reach Temple 44. After that I plan to slow down and amble through the many temples ahead.

I was so pleased to call a nearby ryokan and conduct the whole reservation process in Japanese. That sets me up perfectly for a round trip to Temple 45 without backpack on Monday and then Dogo Onsen on Tuesday where I shall finally get a rest day or two. Dogo Onsen is a very special place.

Tosaka tunnel 1117m long and definitely the worst so far. I had my LED lamp lit all the way

Pilgrim rest hut but no need to shelter today

I see DVD shops everywhere.

Ozu shoppers and diners heaven
A confusion of imagery

8 comments on “Day 30 – Phew! No typhoon for Shikoku

  1. Tassie Kaz

    Phew alright! Amazing Shikoku completely escaped the typhoon’s havoc…other islands, not so fortunate.
    Glad you’re unscathed. 😊

    • That’s so fortunate. It’s all over the TV of course and looks massive. Unlike the previous two, we’re not even getting wet

  2. Philippa

    Good to hear that the typhoon gave Shikoku a miss; must have been a relief for everyone. You seem to be racing along Tim, you’ll deserve your rest days!

    • Hi Philippa yes I hope that’s really the last one of the season. I always find on a pilgrimage there is a time for racing along and a time for ambling, exploring byways and relaxing. The temples have been spread out over the past few days but that will change next week.

  3. Vicky Williamson

    Kia ora, Tim, Great to learn that the typhoon is not affecting you – apart from the humidity. You have certainly got ‘match fit’ as you continue the walk because you talk about the distance you have planned for the day as though it is a stroll to the high street! I’m looking forward to the Dogo Onsen too. Ki o tsukete, ganbatte, Vicky P.S. If you used the ‘Shikokuhenrotrail’ website to prepare – an excellent resource – it has been shut down because the platform provider doubled the annual fee. A great shame.

    • Hi Vicky, that’s such a useful website. I hope it will reappear soon. Far too valuable to lose.

  4. Stuart Nelson

    Good tips on the lodgings Tim. I am making a note for next March/April. Would you send out a list – with scores – at the end of your odyssey – please…?

    • Hi Stuart, I can send a list of where I stayed but I haven’t scored them so I’ll have to rely on memory. Our walking pattern determines where we sleep. Much of the accommodation is poor but the kindness of the people more than compensates. I’ll help as much as I can

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