I was happy to depart from the dreadful Fujino-ya ryokan this morning. Somehow they charged me 8200 yen, the most I’ve paid so far. I couldn’t eat half the dinner and then I discovered my room had no insect screens and several mosquitoes kept me awake from 3.15. I killed one of them and it left a big red splotch. It must have been too heavy to get airborne.
The ryokan was built around a pleasant inside garden and I could hear the wind howling all night. I started walking at 6.30. There was a strong wind blowing and huge low thunderous clouds overhead. AccuWeather forecast a completely dry day, zero percent chance of rain for the next 3 days. It was right. Not one drop fell despite those clouds and the monstrous typhoon wreaking havoc on Tokyo. And the wind gradually died away. Yesterday I suffered one of the most humid days so far with the temperature touching 30 degrees; today it was fresh and there was finally a hint of autumn in the air.
So for me it was business as usual. 33Km to Uchiko. I was tempted to stop in Ozu which had several fine hotels and a hundred very tempting restaurants as well as all the shops you could imagine. But I continued to Uchiko and found a good hotel (the AZ) for 5200 yen including breakfast.
I’m planning another 40Km day tomorrow to reach Temple 44. After that I plan to slow down and amble through the many temples ahead.
I was so pleased to call a nearby ryokan and conduct the whole reservation process in Japanese. That sets me up perfectly for a round trip to Temple 45 without backpack on Monday and then Dogo Onsen on Tuesday where I shall finally get a rest day or two. Dogo Onsen is a very special place.