My expectation for today was an interesting walk around the city to the coast and then a beautiful walk up the coast to what was hopefully a charming seaside resort with many nice bars and cafes.
It wasn’t like that. I skirted around the edge of Matsuyama and saw only the dullest light industrial landscape. Not even a single convenience store. There were a couple of temples which were uninspiring and then came the coast. The Japanese seem to see it as a threat rather than a leisure resource. All the way along the coastal road there were buildings which suggested greater prosperity in the recent past than the present day.
The rain started. It felt like there hadn’t been another pilgrim along the road for months. When I arrived at my accommodation (Mahoroba in Hojo) the most lovely lady welcomed me, showed me around the beautiful house, demonstrated how to operate the washing machine and the shower, hung my waterproofs, brought tea and showed me a simple illustrated menu of some dishes she could cook for my dinner. And what would I like to drink?