Salzburg to Bad Reichenhall, 22Km
Brauereigasthof/Hotel Bürgerbräu, 76 euros
Today was a wet wet day. The forecast had an amber alert for rain and suggested a day in bed but I set off anyway in my best wet weather gear which, like the iPhone, is completely waterproof, except in rain.
I declined the 20 euros breakfast option in the hotel. No doubt it was impressive if the squeals of delight from the Austrians were genuine but I only really want a croissant early in the morning. Instead I stopped at a cafe and made myself a large cappuccino and took a croissant for 4 euros.
I then entered the Cathedral to get my credential stamped. The official turned his nose up at the hotel stamp. People always assume the only reason you walk across Europe is because you can’t afford a bus. I wish I’d got a stamp from the Hotel Bristol.
After that it was a grim walk through the suburbs, past the airport and out into the dripping woods but fortunately Jakobsweg was well behaved and kept to a cycle way along the road. I came to a humble cafe run by two ladies and took a cappuccino. They were so kind. They closed the doors and turned the heat up even though I wasn’t cold, just wet.
Next came the German border. I thought I’d taken a wrong turning in the rain but then I remembered there’s a tiny bit of Germany which pokes into Austria and so I’m in Germany tonight at the spa town of Bad Reichenhall. Of course there were no border formalities. It’s just a few quaint signs, like passing from Virginia to West Virginia. There may be a difference between the Germans and the Austrians but I can’t describe it beyond saying the Germans are far more German. And they’re better at football, which reminds me: Germany v England tonight, up the road in Munich. As an Engerland fan I might smash up the bar if we lose. Or if we win.
Would you mind if I set you some homework? I’m going to the Passion Play in Oberammergau on 19 June. It’s a once in a decade spectacle but it’s far too difficult to explain in a few words. So, check it out and hopefully it will make sense when I get there.