2022

Day 22 – Holed Up in the Tyrol without Edward G. Robinson

Bad Reichenhall to Lofer, 30Km
Das Bräu, 95 euros

I’m back in Austria, in the Tyrol, the land of ski resorts and Mountains & Lakes coach tours. The scenery is nice. I walked through deep glaciated valleys and saw huge snow capped mountains. The cows were ringing their bells behind electric fences, the streams were splashing over rocks and the river was flowing fast. It was all too perfect. I passed through Unken and took a cappuccino in a huge empty restaurant. The village was empty and the tourist information office was closed.

I visited the church at midday just as the Angelus bells sounded, like they have done for centuries but there was no one around to hear them. Onwards past more beautiful tiny chapels to Lofer and my guest house for the night.

Lisa was waiting for me. She owns two hotels in Lofer and as it was my lucky day she was putting me in the other one which had some guests, so I wouldn’t be alone. And she’s promised to make me a sumptuous breakfast at 8am for an additional 21 euros but I said I’d be well down the valley by then.

In other words, the tourist industry has collapsed in the Tyrol. Fortunately there’s one restaurant open this evening among all the shuttered places and a few of us are holed up here, like in Key Largo, eating tonight’s ravioli special or the pizza but fortunately without Edward G. Robinson. Nasty piece of work, him, gangster and racketeer, always shot at the end only to bounce back in the next film. Edward G. Robinson. The world is a worse place without him.

Someone’s chapel
Nice quality footpath through the woods
Unken Maypole and church
The fast flowing Saalach
Mountains ahead
The chapel at Au
Austrian Alpine cheeseboard
Lofer Church
Cow bells

16 comments on “Day 22 – Holed Up in the Tyrol without Edward G. Robinson

  1. Roger Clarkson

    Chocolate country. Take care.

  2. Finally real Austrian scenery. Very neat and tidy! Who mows the grass, is it the nocturnal elves?

    • Yes it looks a lot more classical Austria. Nearly everyone has one of those robot mowers. I expect they work overnight.

  3. Enjoyed the “postcard” photos today and a fabulous alpine cheese spread. Good day all around. Shame about the lack of tourism…but I have faith it will return over time.

    • I guess it will return. Certainly people in the UK are packing into airplanes again. Perhaps the Tyrol is more of a winter resort for skiing

  4. Peter Mastenko

    Nice pics. Austria looks too perfect. They need a few more tourists to spoil the serenity. Great scenery.

  5. Kia ora Tim, Great scenery but I feel for the cows with the bells as it must be like having tinnitus! What were the pastes on the fabulous looking cheese board? Do you actually climb over mountains or are you taking the low ways through valleys? Kia kaha, Vicky

    • I’m impressed how they learn to play the cowbells at such a young age. No idea of the names of all these cheeses. Impossible without speaking German. Sorry

  6. John S

    Beautiful country. Just hope you go through and not over those mountains!

    • Yes hopefully through them otherwise between them is ok but not over them

  7. Philippa T

    What cheeses is Austria best known for? I ask because Utracks (southern hemisphere travel agency) didn’t include Austria in a blog about European cheeses, which seemed odd to me. And I wondered what it would be like here (given that there are more cows than people) if they all had cow bells? Beautiful photos!

    • They have a good spread of Alpine cheese but I’ve not noticed it back home. Perhaps they keep it a secret and just eat it themselves!

  8. Tassie Kaz

    I’ll echo the thoughts of others as to your onward path; mountain high or valley low?
    The video shows the cows swishing their tails vigorously & constantly…hows the insect annoyance level?
    I assume you’ve upped your fibre intake to compensate for all the cheese? 🤭
    Happy trails…a stunning part of the world.

    • I think they were just keeping time to the bells. Insects generally not a problem but I’ve had a few blood suckers

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