Bad Reichenhall to Lofer, 30Km
Das Bräu, 95 euros
I’m back in Austria, in the Tyrol, the land of ski resorts and Mountains & Lakes coach tours. The scenery is nice. I walked through deep glaciated valleys and saw huge snow capped mountains. The cows were ringing their bells behind electric fences, the streams were splashing over rocks and the river was flowing fast. It was all too perfect. I passed through Unken and took a cappuccino in a huge empty restaurant. The village was empty and the tourist information office was closed.
I visited the church at midday just as the Angelus bells sounded, like they have done for centuries but there was no one around to hear them. Onwards past more beautiful tiny chapels to Lofer and my guest house for the night.
Lisa was waiting for me. She owns two hotels in Lofer and as it was my lucky day she was putting me in the other one which had some guests, so I wouldn’t be alone. And she’s promised to make me a sumptuous breakfast at 8am for an additional 21 euros but I said I’d be well down the valley by then.
In other words, the tourist industry has collapsed in the Tyrol. Fortunately there’s one restaurant open this evening among all the shuttered places and a few of us are holed up here, like in Key Largo, eating tonight’s ravioli special or the pizza but fortunately without Edward G. Robinson. Nasty piece of work, him, gangster and racketeer, always shot at the end only to bounce back in the next film. Edward G. Robinson. The world is a worse place without him.