Day 25 – A Jolly Good Walk in the Tirol

Soll to Kramsach, 36Km

Central Pension, 55 euros

I was dreaming of Rattenberg last night and now I’m here, or just over the river in the downmarket Kramsach. It’s a fun place just away from the centre, if there is one. There are a few hotels here and so I didn’t bother to book. I was just walking towards them when I came to a happy little complex, the Central Pension and it’s beer garden with dozens of chickens roasting on the spit.

The owner was trying to fix something around the back when I asked him for a room. I doubt he’d had a guest in weeks so I checked straight in, had a shower and now I’m out in the garden with the rest of Kramsach eating half a roast chicken for dinner. Everyone looks happy. The beer is flowing, more chickens are roasting on the spit and there’s lots of chatter.

I know I’ve had a walk today. The weather was good and I enjoyed it. Clear skies, good visibility and more beautiful scenery. Soon after leaving Soll this morning, I was on a cycle path and as I started to climb into the hills I didn’t notice the Jakobsweg peel off along the valley bottom. When I stopped to admire the view, I realised my mistake and lost a couple of kilometers descending on rough tracks to regain the path. The day was a mixture of cycle ways and woodland excursions up the valley sides.

Later on, a landslide closed the official route and once more I was diverted into the hills on a lengthy detour, during which I got lost. It all made for an extra long day but I can sense Innsbruck getting closer and closer.

The fine weather returned
Lots of cyclists
The railways are not fenced
Today’s chapel
It’s not surprising everyone has taken up cycling with all these fine cycle ways
Jakobsweg diversion
Tonight’s accommodation

8 comments on “Day 25 – A Jolly Good Walk in the Tirol

  1. David Anthony Ghiorso

    enjoying your pilgrimage as looking for a new way separate from Spain in a year. Still have the Invierno and Finisterre to complete this year.

    • It’s a fascinating walk with so much beautiful landscape, history and culture. I’m always told people are walking it but it’s someone every few days so probably little chance of meeting others. Another option could be the Camino from Konstanz which I believe is quite popular

  2. Kia ora Tim, Great scenery and I can understand why you’re enjoying it. I particularly like the photos of the horses – all palominos. My favourite pony growing up was a palomino and she loved jumping even if she couldn’t see over it but only across country. Every showjumping even I entered in a pastoral show, pony club event etc she would balk at the first fence three times and we were then disqualified. Even with more experienced riders than me she refused to jump in formal events. A female with a mind of her own – she taught me something!! Kia kaha, Vicky

    • Hi Vicky, lots of foals around too. I like watching horse racing and I’m an expert at knowing how a horse should be ridden but I’ve never been on one

  3. Miyuki

    Didn’t realise this has been coming in to my mail box for the last three weeks😆wonderful surprise as I was wondering if you are still challenging another pilgrimage. I’ll catch up your journey and enjoy the views with you( not the hard working bit😉). I’m glad you are enjoying it!!

    • みゆきせんせい !! So good to hear from you. I must plan another pilgrimage in Japan and that would inspire me to return to Japanese classes. I miss them!

  4. Philippa T

    Hi Tim, I noticed your comment about the Camino from Konstanz – is this different from the Jacobsweg? I ask because one of our daughters works for a firm whose headquarters are in Bregenz and I’ve looked at nearby walks. There’s lots of info about walks round/near the lake but I haven’t seen one which mentions the Camino? You’re in a lovely part of Austria I see – and the diversions look interesting, though teetering along animal tracks on steep hillsides might be a bit too interesting!

    • Hi Philippa, the Jakobsweg is a network of routes through German speaking Europe, all converging on the Camino Frances at some point. Over the years I’ve met several pilgrims who started in Konstanz and they walk south through Switzerland towards Le Puy and then Santiago. So, yes there is a Camino from Konstanz and my guess is that it’s quite a popular one.

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