2017

Day 7 – Aubrac Transverse 

It seems to be the same group of pilgrims staying at Le ferme du Barry last night and after a few Aubrac blonde biers I was a little more talkative at the table, talking French gibberish to great effect. M. Barry produced a sumptuous dinner with lamb and the local dish, Aligot, a mixture of potatoes, cream and cheese.

Amazingly, today was a glorious summer’s day for the Aubrac traverse. Full sun and not a hint of wind or rain. The plateau looked quite attractive. After walking for a couple of hours we came to a remote cafe and stopped for tea. The place was 1 star dirty and it was a pleasure to get on our way in the sunshine.

We sat in the garden of a gite to eat our ham and cheese sandwich along with all the other pilgrims. The gite had a dazzling selection of fruit tarts and I chose Apple and Pear with a green tea. With all these fruit tarts on offer across France I decided not to carry 225 grams of sweets any further and left them at the gite last night. Unfortunately one of my roommates thought I’d forgotten them and presented them to me in the garden. No doubt the Waitrose label was a hint. I did my best to offload some of them to the bemused pilgrims and will dispose of the remainder more carefully.

This is the land of the long horned cattle. There are 50000 of them and later this month they are dressed up and driven into Nasbinals for a beauty contest.

M. Barry serving the Aligot last night

Pilgrims “keep your feet dry” bridge

Crossing the Aubrac. The French like barbed wire fences

Our garden lunch, tarte du maison

Pilgrims setting off together


Famous Aubrac long horned cattle


Tonight’s cheeseboard

About Tim

Pilgrim on the Via Francigena

11 comments on “Day 7 – Aubrac Transverse 

  1. Lucy Davies

    You paint a perfect picture of the day’s events. Thoroughly enjoy reading your blog. The tarts sound rather good

  2. I’m still waiting to see a photo of the wardrobe!

    • I would have to go all the way back. But tonight I have a bed and as a special treat a towel and soap

  3. I’m still waiting to see a picture of this French tart.

  4. Martin

    Your walks look great and I’m feeling somewhat jealous although I could do without the wardrobe. Bonne Marche!

    • Thank you Martin, you would love it but the wardrobe would have been a little cramped for both of us.

  5. It sounds like the food in France is much better than it was in Spain! My mouth is watering – especially for some of that cheese. The scenery is beautiful. Since I don’t speak a lick of French, I think I’ll stick with the Spanish routes, tho, in spite of the lackluster food. Bon Chemin!

    • You are right but Spain was half the price. The food is very good but the conversation is very difficult. Maybe one day Martin Sheen will make a film about the Le Puy route and then we’ll get lots of English speaking people. Certainly the scenery deserves it.

  6. Peter Mastenko

    Sounds like just the route I need to take to improve my spoken French! Just catching up with your blog, Tim, after a lovely Tour of Rome and Southern Italy last week, where we visited many religious sites and attended the Papal audience (I kid you not!)

    • Hi Peter I’m looking forward to hearing about your trip and especially the Papal audience. But I don’t promise to help you with your spoken French

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