Bowes to Middleton
Great breaking news!! 82 year old Pennine Way hiker found safe and well near Keld. He’d hit his head apparently. Who’d do a stupid thing like that? Well done Eveline for a first class bit of research. Everyone loves a happy ending
There is only one accommodation in Bowes, The Ancient Unicorn. When you’re the only place in town you can call it whatever you want. I was the only walker but there was a group of bikers. Among the Hondas was a Triumph. That’s a great bike even though they keep going bankrupt. One immediately thinks of Marlon Brando in The Wild One and of course Steve McQueen in The Great Escape. Also Richard Gere in An Officer and a Gentleman. They all had a Triumph.
I looked around at breakfast but there was only a group of elderly ladies having the full English. I should have realised. But I soon heard them talking about their bikes and that Triumph.
Bowes is a great little town. It has its own castle and an atmospheric St Giles church and graveyard. It’s just 20 miles west of Darlington. That means I’m well and truly in the north of England. Our country has such a wealth of regional and local accents. She used to tell me about Darlington and her life up here. How I wish I could have pulled out my iPhone in 1971 and recorded her. I’d never heard such an accent. I hope these local characteristics don’t disappear as the world shrinks.
The day started with sunshine and so the moors looked stunning. Despite being on the softies trail, I had an accident. A branch was hidden in a patch of thistles and my boot caught it. The branch refused to yield, I couldn’t free my boot and down I went – into the thistles. Fortunately they were the non stinging type.
I sat on a small bridge over a bit of bog to enjoy my coffee and a piece of fruit cake from the Ancient Unicorn. At lunchtime I sat on a handy stretch of dry stone wall under a tree. They made me a dry stone cheese sandwich and I got a dry stone bag of salted crisps.
The mist came down as bad as yesterday but Middleton appeared just where I was expecting it and I found another decent B&B called Brunswick house with a bowl of fruit in my room.
I’m here for two nights. The clever Contours people will ferry me backwards and forwards so I can avoid a long walking day. I could get used to this.
The Ancient Unicorn
St Giles, Bowes and Castle
A typical dry stone wall stile with a little door to stop the sheep hopping over
That’s all for today