Days 45 & 46 – The familiar sights and sounds of Pamplona
My breakfast was included in the 15 euro price of the Albergue in Zubiri but Albergue breakfasts are generally ratherContinue Reading
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Day 44 – 800 Kms completed. Camino People
Twenty more kilometres to go. Tomorrow I finish my pilgrimage from Le Puy to Pamplona, where this year’s path willContinue Reading
Day 43 – crossing the Pyrenees into Spain
I was expecting something of a quiet day in SJPDP yesterday but that only lasted long enough to write myContinue Reading
Days 41 & 42 – at the end of the Via Podiensis
I’m now taking a rest day in Saint Jean Pied de Port. Saturday started a little late and the sheepContinue Reading
Day 40 – Ferme Gainekoetxea tonight
Suddenly I seem to be surrounded by Pyrenees. We are in Basque Country, the path rises and falls over theContinue Reading
Day 39 – Roads, Woods and the Basque Country
The Monsieur at last night’s gite announced the menu just before dinner. The main course was duck. Duck makes meContinue Reading
Day 38 – Another rather hot day on the Pilgrim Superhighway
For once it was my turn to wake everyone up at 5.35 although judging from the snoring I wasn’t tooContinue Reading
Day 37 – to Pomps.
Here’s another village with a peculiar name, Pomps. I set off from Pimbo in good spirits with Fr, a FrenchContinue Reading
Day 36 – to Pimbo
My day began at 3am when one of the pilgrims fell out of bed; fortunately not from the top bunkContinue Reading
Day 35 – Gardez Le Moral
Madame Marinette said I was the first English pilgrim in her gite, Le Presbytère à Lanne-Soubiran. The region is popularContinue Reading
Day 34 – Le Presbytere à Lanne-Soubiran
I was happy enough to set off this morning after spending the night alone in the little Chez Monique hotel.Continue Reading
Day 33 – into the real heart of Armagnac country
Madame Anita was waiting with breakfast at 7.30 as planned. Cereal, fresh bread, homemade jams and tea. She has walkedContinue Reading
Days 31 & 32 a rest day; Poodlemania in Condom
I generally like to take a few rest days along the way. It gives me a chance to watch theContinue Reading
Day 30 – what’s the one thing you can’t seem to find in Condom?
Last night’s school gite was a good experience. We took an Australian lady called M to dinner. She had onlyContinue Reading
Day 29 – why miss Le Romieu?
If it’s good enough for the UNESCO person, it’s good enough for me. For some strange reason the GR65 offersContinue Reading
Day 28 – Travels with a Donkey
If I hadn’t made a reservation I’m sure I wouldn’t have chosen last night’s chambre d’hote. But in the eventContinue Reading
Day 27 – Baron for a night
C and I shared the Chateau last night with a German couple walking the Camino in stages. There were touristsContinue Reading
Day 26 – The Rivers Tarn and Garonne and the Canals Deux-Mers and Golfech. It’s all so confusing on a hot day. Then the Chateau de Lastours
After breakfast I set off with C along the nearby canal des Deux-Mers. Or was it the canal de Golfech?Continue Reading
Day 25 – Attention, Le Train Grande Vitesse
I spent the day here in Moissac, a traditional stopping place on the way to Saint Jacques de Compostelle. ManyContinue Reading
Day 24 – a long squelchy walk to Moissac
After yesterday’s torrential rain, today was a dull grey day with a constant drizzle that required waterproofs. Despite best effortsContinue Reading
Day 23 – the mystery of the pilgrim ghost
The Madame of the gite “Le nid des Anges” last night went to a lot of trouble to look afterContinue Reading
Day 22 – a new beginning
I’ve said goodbye to many familiar faces for whom Cahors was the end of their adventure for this year. SomeContinue Reading
Days 20 & 21 – Cahors City and my lost ongle du petit orteil
Another pleasant valley Sunday here in Cahors (pop 20,000), watching the River Lot cascading towards its meeting with the mightyContinue Reading
Day 19 – 29 Km across the Causses
By chance I’m discovering the different types of accommodation in rural France. There is the Gite Communal which is aContinue Reading
Day 18 – walking across Causses limestone from Cajarc to Limogne-en-Quercy
Another dreamy walk across the Causses today. These are hot sunny days, 32C for the moment. I had time toContinue Reading
Day 17 – another UNESCO beauty
Really I couldn’t walk more slowly. Even the tortoise-like Swiss team set off ahead of me this morning. I wantedContinue Reading
Day 16 – onto the next desolate UNESCO listed plateau, the Causses
Last night’s Gite Gua in Figeac was one of the best so far. Madame Frederique put her heart and soulContinue Reading
Day 15 – Figeac on the River Cele
This morning, the Madame of the Gite Levinhac Le Haut was waiting to show me to breakfast. She speaks goodContinue Reading
Day 14 – I leave my mark on Conques
I spent the afternoon in Conques drinking beer and reading. On my way back to the Abbaye I came acrossContinue Reading
Days 12 & 13 – Conques
Conques is a major pilgrimage destination as well as a resting place for pilgrims walking along the Via Podiensis. TheContinue Reading
Day 11 – two mistakes and a little bad luck
Today was a long 26k walk over challenging terrain. “I” can be forgiven for not concentrating fully on Madame’s 15Continue Reading
Day 10 – A quick word about Navigation
A quick word about navigating this Camino. The Le Puy route is also designated a French long distance footpath, theContinue Reading
Day 9 – off the Aubrac and into the Lot River Valley.
The temperature has soared into the high 20s as we descend into the Lot River Valley. It’s strange to thinkContinue Reading
Day 8 – a tart worthy of the Aubrac
Another glorious day to complete the crossing of the Aubrac plateau. The sun was shining, no hint of a windContinue Reading
Day 7 – Aubrac Transverse
It seems to be the same group of pilgrims staying at Le ferme du Barry last night and after aContinue Reading
Day 6 – Aubrac Plateau, one of the most desolate, depopulated areas of France.
I have really jumped into the deep end with this Via Podiensis. Having crossed the first set of mountains weContinue Reading
Day 5 – no room at the Gite
A maddening mixture of rain and sun today as we continued our walk over the Margeride hills and forests. WeContinue Reading
Day 4 – the eye-watering cost of an English nanny in Hampstead
Last night I sat with a group of St Etienne supporters for dinner in the gite La Cabourne in SaintContinue Reading
Day 3 – and the Camino starts again
First of all I forgot to say thank you for all the comments so far. It’s good to hear fromContinue Reading
Days 1 & 2 – Le Puy-en-Velay, volcanoes and lentils
Day 1 was a lot of hard travelling to reach Le Puy. I had a cheap BA flight to LyonContinue Reading
Day 0 – Preparations complete for the Via Podiensis
All set for another Camino…
Afterword
The Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) originated in the 10th century during the decline of Moorish power inContinue Reading
Day 57 – The End of the Camino
My Camino is finished. I’ve walked 1051 Kms from Weybridge over 45 walking days since 21 April. It has beenContinue Reading
Day 56 – The End of the Road
I told my feet to stop walking and looked up to admire the Portico de la Gloria. This is theContinue Reading
Day 55 – Raindrops keep falling on my head
Heavy showers today and heavy thundery showers for the rest of the week. It had to come. I enjoyed myContinue Reading
Day 54 – 1000 Kms out
Today I walked through the 1000 kilometres point on my Camino. And after 2 really dreadful stops I am nowContinue Reading
Day 53 – Muddy Trainers
Oh dear, the sunshine has gone and there is a hint of rain. Mixed agriculture, as we called it inContinue Reading
Day 52 – The Final 100 Kms
A large number of new pilgrims have joined the Camino today. The days of solitude among the hills and wheatContinue Reading
Day 51 – Stuck in Sarria
I’ve progressed from the Church to the Bottle. The reason is that the Church is locked but the bar isContinue Reading
Day 50 – Fab Monasteries
Utter disappointment, the Samos monastery. Today could have been a short and pleasant walk for 18 Kms. The decision toContinue Reading
Day 49 – Over the Mountain
As expected, today was one of the toughest days for walking due to the steep ascents and descents over 29Continue Reading
Day 48 – Onwards to Las Herrerias
I’ve shaken off yesterday’s affliction but took it easy today. 21 Kms on more horrible tarmac. Met DJ (that reallyContinue Reading
Day 47 – Villafranca Idle
Felt ghastly all day. Just as well it was a rest day. Tomorrow’s walk is not too demanding so IContinue Reading
Day 46 – Villafranca del Bierzo (End of Stage 6)
I am settled in the Paradore for a couple of nights and my few clothes are hanging up to dryContinue Reading
Day 45 – Molina Seca
Another seductive name for a small town on the Camino. I passed several abandoned villages today but the small townsContinue Reading
Day 44 – Into the Mountains of Leon
I heard my first cuckoo while crossing the South Downs and they are present all the way along the Camino.Continue Reading
Day 43 – A Day in Astorga
I’ve stopped in Astorga before tackling the mountains ahead. There is a pleasant cathedral which opens from 9.00 to 10.30Continue Reading
Day 42 – a short walk to Astorga
I checked out of Hospital de Orbigo at 6.30 and headed out across the fields and passed a cow shedContinue Reading
Day 41 – In Hospital
After another splendid buffet breakfast I set off on the next stage of the Camino. The temperature soon rose intoContinue Reading
Day 40 – Resting in Leon
The ideal rest day is to do very little. Not the case today. I’ve exercised the stomach more than wasContinue Reading
Day 39 – Leon, the City that Sleeps
No hanging around this morning. Breakfast was toast and jam and then we were on our way into Leon. It’sContinue Reading
Day 38 – Mansilla and the Mules
Sounds more like a band but it’s my latest town on the approach to Leon. I suspect the Kings ofContinue Reading
Day 37 – El Burgo Ranero: another dreary Camino town
Actually this place is buzzing with pilgrims. All the hostels and hotels are full, the bars and restaurants are packed,Continue Reading
Day 36 – Sahagun
After yesterday’s hellish walk, today was a little stroll between decent cafes. Just 22 Kms to the charmless Sahagun andContinue Reading
Day 35 – Meseta Meseta Meseta
We are well and truly on the Meseta, a more or less flat plateau about 900m high, supporting fields ofContinue Reading
Day 34 – it’s 1972
Yesterday’s slog continued for another unremitting 23 Kms to the village of Villarmentero de Campos and the Albergue which isContinue Reading
Day 33 – 31 more kilometres
There were 25 of us for the Paella dinner last night. It is the only way to eat it. IContinue Reading
Day 32 – back on the road again
I picked my way through the debris and broken glass in Burgos this morning having played my part in theContinue Reading
Day 31 – Burgos sights and sounds
Great evening yesterday when I spotted our 4 Canadian friends who have featured on previous blogs, most notably a drunkenContinue Reading
Day 30 – Burgos
Much to Manfred’s disgust, I’ve checked into a 4 star hotel for 2 nights. Ahead of me in the checkContinue Reading
Day 29 – Atapuerca, Half Way
I’ve now walked 529 Kms out of 1045 Kms. Today I passed the half way point. Whichever way I lookContinue Reading
Day 28 – Warming up
The temperature is rising, a taste of the summer heat to come. A steady 24 Km today; just 38 KmContinue Reading
Day 27 – Castille
Shame to pass through La Rioja so quickly although much wine was consumed. Now it is Castille for a fewContinue Reading
Day 26 – Camino moves onto Azofra
It could be Monday and it could be Azofra but it hardly matters. We are definitely in La Rioja becauseContinue Reading
Day 25 – La Rioja
I never thought I’d walk again after the past couple of days of walking on one foot but my rightContinue Reading
Day 24 – Last Day in Navarra
It’s Saturday in another charming small town in Navarra, Viana. The approach to these towns is always the same. YouContinue Reading
Day 23 – Vino Galore!
Today’s walk passed a monastery with a wine fountain. You just open the tap and fill your bottle or yourContinue Reading
Day 22 – For Whom The Bell Tolls
A really nice hostel last night with a decent bar right outside. However the village church next door kept chimingContinue Reading
Day 21 Westward Ho!
For the first time on my Camino I’m heading west toward Santiago. And for the first time I can discardContinue Reading
Day 20 – 333 Kms
Lazy day in Pamplona but that’s what it says in the plan. I’ve walked 333 Kms in almost 3 weeks.Continue Reading
Day 19 – Pamplona no bull
You don’t need to have read Hemingway to know all about the bull run in one mad July week. ItContinue Reading
Day 18 – Pamplona at last
This is a big day for me because I have arrived at the Camino Frances which is the main pilgrimContinue Reading
Day 17 – Over The Hills Of Navarra
These hills of Navarra would be a lot of fun in a car. Heavy heavy clouds have been hanging lowContinue Reading
Day 16 – Into the hills of Navarra
I’ve left behind the pleasant towns and headed into the hills, crossing from the Basque Country into Navarra. Quite aContinue Reading
Day 15 – Farewell to San Sebastián
I left San Sebastián soon after sunrise to start the next stage to Pamplona. A long walk straight over theContinue Reading
Day 14 – San Sebastián rest day 2
Impossible to travel in Spain without visiting the churches. I started today in the cathedral. Nothing noteworthy. I walked upContinue Reading
Day 13 – San Sebastián rest day 1
A day of idle wandering around the old town, lurching from one coffee with milk to the next. The churchContinue Reading
Day 12 – End of Stage 2
San Sebastián. Another delightful walk over the Basque hills in warm spring sunshine. At one point my path was closedContinue Reading
Day 11 – Coastal Walk to Zarautz
Lovely walk along the coastline. The sun is still shining and it’s a typical Sunday with hundreds of racing bikesContinue Reading
Day 10 – Deba by the Seaside
A pleasant walk today, down from the Basque hills to the coast. So far I have escaped the rain. MyContinue Reading
Day 9 – Warm Sunny Day
More wandering over the Basque Country, a dozen satellites tracking my whereabouts. I have also acquired a bilingual app whichContinue Reading
Day 8 – Heading East
Travelling on a mixture of roads and footpaths in the Basque Country for 5 days to San Sebastián
Day 7 – Bilboa
A distressed fellow pilgrim in the hotel lobby pleading for a chiropodist to attend to her blisters. Spent the morningContinue Reading
Day 6 – into Bilbao
I leave the comfort of the ferry and have to pretend to be a car to clear the port. BilbaoContinue Reading
Day 5 Boat to Spain
Have been hobbling around the Brittany Ferry to Bilbao with a juicy, smelly blister. Fortunately Mandy brought my trusty oldContinue Reading
Day 4 – Stroll down to Portsmouth for the ferry to Bilbao
Arrived in Portsmouth this afternoon, dumped the backpack in left luggage and headed to Gunwharf Quays for a final SundayContinue Reading
Day 3 – Over the South Downs
A fine hike on footpaths and country lanes over the South Downs. Bluebells. Magnificent views. Arrived unexpectedly early at myContinue Reading
Day 2 Due South
Shorter 18 mile walk today, through Haslemere and Liphook to Liss. Arrived at the jolly Jolly Drover just before theContinue Reading
Day 1 – Walking along the River Wey
Beautiful day to start the journey after weeks of rain. Walked along the Wey through deepest Surrey to Godalming. VeryContinue Reading
Days of Preparation complete…
Day 0 Packed Maps downloaded iPhone charged
