Day 19 – Arras rest day
Arras. Two world wars were fought here but it’s mostly about WW1 and the battle of Arras in 1917. TheContinue Reading
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Day 18 – Arras
Well we did it. 39Km all the way into Arras. We met resistance from tractors, Peugeot and Citroen but weContinue Reading
Day 17 – The journey continues into rural France
Claude walked with us for the first few kilometres this morning to point us in the right direction. We madeContinue Reading
Day 16 – On The Farm
There is nothing quite like a rest day on the Pilgrimage. It’s a chance for the body to recover andContinue Reading
Day 15 – Mametz
I slept well in the Abbey last night, possibly for fear of waking in the night needing the toilet andContinue Reading
Day 14 – a night in the Abbey in Wisques
A pleasant enough day, walking 19Km through fields of flax and corn to Wisques. We are staying in the AbbeyContinue Reading
Day 13 – we start to penetrate into France
I have a new big toe. It’s normally one of the little ones but now it is supremely enormous onContinue Reading
Day 12 – Guines, some 12Km from Calais
Today’s plan was to follow the GR footpath to Guines, a breathtaking 26Km. My head and body were keen butContinue Reading
Day 11 – we sail to France
What a day! But we made it to Wissant, the little seaside town some 20Km south of Calais. Wissant wasContinue Reading
Day 10 – we depart Canterbury after a final Wetherspoon breakfast
It was an amazing experience to start walking along the Via Francigena this morning. But it is still the NorthContinue Reading
Day 9 – Canterbury, the start of the Via Francigena to Rome
It’s great to have a rest day after a tough walk from Weybridge along the North Downs Way. Wetherspoons (aContinue Reading
Day 8 – arrived in Canterbury
This was the laziest day for a pilgrim. I slept for 9 hours then ate a huge breakfast in theContinue Reading
Day 7 – crippled by blisters
It was another 30Km walk today and I felt every step. The blisters, one under each foot, were probably causedContinue Reading
Day 6 – Borstal to Harrietsham, 33Km
What a superb B&B at 108 Borstal Rd Borstal last night. Nothing was too much trouble for the landlady. WeContinue Reading
Day 5 – a really lovely day but … blisters
I planned these first few days to be easy but my mapping software does not take gradients into account. SoContinue Reading
Day 4 – a dreadful start to the day
I was very pleased with my navigation efforts yesterday to steer us off the North Downs Way along local footpathsContinue Reading
Day 3 – over the big hills of the North Downs
I slept really well last night. Paul mentioned that. After breakfast we set off through the mist that was swirlingContinue Reading
Day 2 – onto the North Downs Way, the horror, the horror …
I was under the mistaken belief that today’s walk was a mere 21Km so we had a lazy start. PaulContinue Reading
Day 1 – at last it’s day 1
As usual I slept badly last night imagining all the horrors and disasters that will no doubt confront us. EverythingContinue Reading
T minus five – not all roads lead to Rome
The Route I’ve planned the English stage but that’s all. We start on Monday here in Weybridge by joining somethingContinue Reading
T minus ten. How do you prepare to walk 2200 kms to Rome?
It wasn’t my idea to walk to Rome. Last Christmas Eve I was drinking wine and sending greetings to myContinue Reading
Days 45 & 46 – The familiar sights and sounds of Pamplona
My breakfast was included in the 15 euro price of the Albergue in Zubiri but Albergue breakfasts are generally ratherContinue Reading
Day 44 – 800 Kms completed. Camino People
Twenty more kilometres to go. Tomorrow I finish my pilgrimage from Le Puy to Pamplona, where this year’s path willContinue Reading
Day 43 – crossing the Pyrenees into Spain
I was expecting something of a quiet day in SJPDP yesterday but that only lasted long enough to write myContinue Reading
Days 41 & 42 – at the end of the Via Podiensis
I’m now taking a rest day in Saint Jean Pied de Port. Saturday started a little late and the sheepContinue Reading
Day 40 – Ferme Gainekoetxea tonight
Suddenly I seem to be surrounded by Pyrenees. We are in Basque Country, the path rises and falls over theContinue Reading
Day 39 – Roads, Woods and the Basque Country
The Monsieur at last night’s gite announced the menu just before dinner. The main course was duck. Duck makes meContinue Reading
Day 38 – Another rather hot day on the Pilgrim Superhighway
For once it was my turn to wake everyone up at 5.35 although judging from the snoring I wasn’t tooContinue Reading
Day 37 – to Pomps.
Here’s another village with a peculiar name, Pomps. I set off from Pimbo in good spirits with Fr, a FrenchContinue Reading
Day 36 – to Pimbo
My day began at 3am when one of the pilgrims fell out of bed; fortunately not from the top bunkContinue Reading
Day 35 – Gardez Le Moral
Madame Marinette said I was the first English pilgrim in her gite, Le Presbytère à Lanne-Soubiran. The region is popularContinue Reading
Day 34 – Le Presbytere à Lanne-Soubiran
I was happy enough to set off this morning after spending the night alone in the little Chez Monique hotel.Continue Reading
Day 33 – into the real heart of Armagnac country
Madame Anita was waiting with breakfast at 7.30 as planned. Cereal, fresh bread, homemade jams and tea. She has walkedContinue Reading
Days 31 & 32 a rest day; Poodlemania in Condom
I generally like to take a few rest days along the way. It gives me a chance to watch theContinue Reading
Day 30 – what’s the one thing you can’t seem to find in Condom?
Last night’s school gite was a good experience. We took an Australian lady called M to dinner. She had onlyContinue Reading
Day 29 – why miss Le Romieu?
If it’s good enough for the UNESCO person, it’s good enough for me. For some strange reason the GR65 offersContinue Reading
Day 28 – Travels with a Donkey
If I hadn’t made a reservation I’m sure I wouldn’t have chosen last night’s chambre d’hote. But in the eventContinue Reading
Day 27 – Baron for a night
C and I shared the Chateau last night with a German couple walking the Camino in stages. There were touristsContinue Reading
Day 26 – The Rivers Tarn and Garonne and the Canals Deux-Mers and Golfech. It’s all so confusing on a hot day. Then the Chateau de Lastours
After breakfast I set off with C along the nearby canal des Deux-Mers. Or was it the canal de Golfech?Continue Reading
Day 25 – Attention, Le Train Grande Vitesse
I spent the day here in Moissac, a traditional stopping place on the way to Saint Jacques de Compostelle. ManyContinue Reading
Day 24 – a long squelchy walk to Moissac
After yesterday’s torrential rain, today was a dull grey day with a constant drizzle that required waterproofs. Despite best effortsContinue Reading
Day 23 – the mystery of the pilgrim ghost
The Madame of the gite “Le nid des Anges” last night went to a lot of trouble to look afterContinue Reading
Day 22 – a new beginning
I’ve said goodbye to many familiar faces for whom Cahors was the end of their adventure for this year. SomeContinue Reading
Days 20 & 21 – Cahors City and my lost ongle du petit orteil
Another pleasant valley Sunday here in Cahors (pop 20,000), watching the River Lot cascading towards its meeting with the mightyContinue Reading
Day 19 – 29 Km across the Causses
By chance I’m discovering the different types of accommodation in rural France. There is the Gite Communal which is aContinue Reading
Day 18 – walking across Causses limestone from Cajarc to Limogne-en-Quercy
Another dreamy walk across the Causses today. These are hot sunny days, 32C for the moment. I had time toContinue Reading
Day 17 – another UNESCO beauty
Really I couldn’t walk more slowly. Even the tortoise-like Swiss team set off ahead of me this morning. I wantedContinue Reading
Day 16 – onto the next desolate UNESCO listed plateau, the Causses
Last night’s Gite Gua in Figeac was one of the best so far. Madame Frederique put her heart and soulContinue Reading
Day 15 – Figeac on the River Cele
This morning, the Madame of the Gite Levinhac Le Haut was waiting to show me to breakfast. She speaks goodContinue Reading
Day 14 – I leave my mark on Conques
I spent the afternoon in Conques drinking beer and reading. On my way back to the Abbaye I came acrossContinue Reading
Days 12 & 13 – Conques
Conques is a major pilgrimage destination as well as a resting place for pilgrims walking along the Via Podiensis. TheContinue Reading
Day 11 – two mistakes and a little bad luck
Today was a long 26k walk over challenging terrain. “I” can be forgiven for not concentrating fully on Madame’s 15Continue Reading
Day 10 – A quick word about Navigation
A quick word about navigating this Camino. The Le Puy route is also designated a French long distance footpath, theContinue Reading
Day 9 – off the Aubrac and into the Lot River Valley.
The temperature has soared into the high 20s as we descend into the Lot River Valley. It’s strange to thinkContinue Reading
Day 8 – a tart worthy of the Aubrac
Another glorious day to complete the crossing of the Aubrac plateau. The sun was shining, no hint of a windContinue Reading
Day 7 – Aubrac Transverse
It seems to be the same group of pilgrims staying at Le ferme du Barry last night and after aContinue Reading
Day 6 – Aubrac Plateau, one of the most desolate, depopulated areas of France.
I have really jumped into the deep end with this Via Podiensis. Having crossed the first set of mountains weContinue Reading
Day 5 – no room at the Gite
A maddening mixture of rain and sun today as we continued our walk over the Margeride hills and forests. WeContinue Reading
Day 4 – the eye-watering cost of an English nanny in Hampstead
Last night I sat with a group of St Etienne supporters for dinner in the gite La Cabourne in SaintContinue Reading
Day 3 – and the Camino starts again
First of all I forgot to say thank you for all the comments so far. It’s good to hear fromContinue Reading
Days 1 & 2 – Le Puy-en-Velay, volcanoes and lentils
Day 1 was a lot of hard travelling to reach Le Puy. I had a cheap BA flight to LyonContinue Reading
Day 0 – Preparations complete for the Via Podiensis
All set for another Camino…
Afterword
The Camino de Santiago (Way of St James) originated in the 10th century during the decline of Moorish power inContinue Reading
Day 57 – The End of the Camino
My Camino is finished. I’ve walked 1051 Kms from Weybridge over 45 walking days since 21 April. It has beenContinue Reading
Day 56 – The End of the Road
I told my feet to stop walking and looked up to admire the Portico de la Gloria. This is theContinue Reading
Day 55 – Raindrops keep falling on my head
Heavy showers today and heavy thundery showers for the rest of the week. It had to come. I enjoyed myContinue Reading
Day 54 – 1000 Kms out
Today I walked through the 1000 kilometres point on my Camino. And after 2 really dreadful stops I am nowContinue Reading
Day 53 – Muddy Trainers
Oh dear, the sunshine has gone and there is a hint of rain. Mixed agriculture, as we called it inContinue Reading
Day 52 – The Final 100 Kms
A large number of new pilgrims have joined the Camino today. The days of solitude among the hills and wheatContinue Reading
Day 51 – Stuck in Sarria
I’ve progressed from the Church to the Bottle. The reason is that the Church is locked but the bar isContinue Reading
Day 50 – Fab Monasteries
Utter disappointment, the Samos monastery. Today could have been a short and pleasant walk for 18 Kms. The decision toContinue Reading
Day 49 – Over the Mountain
As expected, today was one of the toughest days for walking due to the steep ascents and descents over 29Continue Reading
Day 48 – Onwards to Las Herrerias
I’ve shaken off yesterday’s affliction but took it easy today. 21 Kms on more horrible tarmac. Met DJ (that reallyContinue Reading
Day 47 – Villafranca Idle
Felt ghastly all day. Just as well it was a rest day. Tomorrow’s walk is not too demanding so IContinue Reading
Day 46 – Villafranca del Bierzo (End of Stage 6)
I am settled in the Paradore for a couple of nights and my few clothes are hanging up to dryContinue Reading
Day 45 – Molina Seca
Another seductive name for a small town on the Camino. I passed several abandoned villages today but the small townsContinue Reading
Day 44 – Into the Mountains of Leon
I heard my first cuckoo while crossing the South Downs and they are present all the way along the Camino.Continue Reading
Day 43 – A Day in Astorga
I’ve stopped in Astorga before tackling the mountains ahead. There is a pleasant cathedral which opens from 9.00 to 10.30Continue Reading
Day 42 – a short walk to Astorga
I checked out of Hospital de Orbigo at 6.30 and headed out across the fields and passed a cow shedContinue Reading
Day 41 – In Hospital
After another splendid buffet breakfast I set off on the next stage of the Camino. The temperature soon rose intoContinue Reading
Day 40 – Resting in Leon
The ideal rest day is to do very little. Not the case today. I’ve exercised the stomach more than wasContinue Reading
Day 39 – Leon, the City that Sleeps
No hanging around this morning. Breakfast was toast and jam and then we were on our way into Leon. It’sContinue Reading
Day 38 – Mansilla and the Mules
Sounds more like a band but it’s my latest town on the approach to Leon. I suspect the Kings ofContinue Reading
Day 37 – El Burgo Ranero: another dreary Camino town
Actually this place is buzzing with pilgrims. All the hostels and hotels are full, the bars and restaurants are packed,Continue Reading
Day 36 – Sahagun
After yesterday’s hellish walk, today was a little stroll between decent cafes. Just 22 Kms to the charmless Sahagun andContinue Reading
Day 35 – Meseta Meseta Meseta
We are well and truly on the Meseta, a more or less flat plateau about 900m high, supporting fields ofContinue Reading
Day 34 – it’s 1972
Yesterday’s slog continued for another unremitting 23 Kms to the village of Villarmentero de Campos and the Albergue which isContinue Reading
Day 33 – 31 more kilometres
There were 25 of us for the Paella dinner last night. It is the only way to eat it. IContinue Reading
Day 32 – back on the road again
I picked my way through the debris and broken glass in Burgos this morning having played my part in theContinue Reading
Day 31 – Burgos sights and sounds
Great evening yesterday when I spotted our 4 Canadian friends who have featured on previous blogs, most notably a drunkenContinue Reading
Day 30 – Burgos
Much to Manfred’s disgust, I’ve checked into a 4 star hotel for 2 nights. Ahead of me in the checkContinue Reading
Day 29 – Atapuerca, Half Way
I’ve now walked 529 Kms out of 1045 Kms. Today I passed the half way point. Whichever way I lookContinue Reading
Day 28 – Warming up
The temperature is rising, a taste of the summer heat to come. A steady 24 Km today; just 38 KmContinue Reading
Day 27 – Castille
Shame to pass through La Rioja so quickly although much wine was consumed. Now it is Castille for a fewContinue Reading
Day 26 – Camino moves onto Azofra
It could be Monday and it could be Azofra but it hardly matters. We are definitely in La Rioja becauseContinue Reading
Day 25 – La Rioja
I never thought I’d walk again after the past couple of days of walking on one foot but my rightContinue Reading
Day 24 – Last Day in Navarra
It’s Saturday in another charming small town in Navarra, Viana. The approach to these towns is always the same. YouContinue Reading
Day 23 – Vino Galore!
Today’s walk passed a monastery with a wine fountain. You just open the tap and fill your bottle or yourContinue Reading
Day 22 – For Whom The Bell Tolls
A really nice hostel last night with a decent bar right outside. However the village church next door kept chimingContinue Reading
Day 21 Westward Ho!
For the first time on my Camino I’m heading west toward Santiago. And for the first time I can discardContinue Reading
Pilgrimage 